Climbing Video: Will Stanhope works Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish

by Tom Markiewicz on June 27, 2009

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Climbing video of Will Stanhope nearly hitting the second to last hold of Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish before popping off. He later went on to make the fifth ascent of the route.

The Cobra Crack 5.14, Will Stanhope from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

(via Sonnie Trotter)

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Quick Sends - 6/26/09

June 26, 2009

The Access Fund signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Park Service (NPS) outlining a relationship between climbers and the NPS.
Nalle Hukkataival is in Colorado sending Jade (V15) and establishing a new V13 called Sunseeker.
Adam Ondra repeats Alex Huber’s Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. Om sat unrepeated for 17 years after Huber’s first ascent.
Will [...]

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New Study Links Higher BPA Levels to Drinking From Polycarbonate Water Bottles

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A new Harvard study confirms the health risks associated with BPA in polycarbonate water bottles.
We found that drinking cold liquids from polycarbonate bottles for just one week increased urinary BPA levels by more than two-thirds. If you heat those bottles, as is the case with baby bottles, we would expect the levels to be considerably [...]

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Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips

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Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips.
Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but there was a day when there was only trad. Trad climbing may be analogous to [...]

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Will Gadd on Tragedy

June 22, 2009

Will Gadd writes a provocative post on the recent deaths of Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and using the tragedy label.
For me I’m never going to use the word “tragedy” in reference to a climbing or mountain sports accident again. A tragedy is when a whole family gets killed by a drunk driver. [...]

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Topping Out a Boulder Problem and Avoiding the Beached Whale

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Climbing Magazine has a detailed bouldering tech tip on how to top out on a boulder problem (obviously for those slopey, nasty ones).

1 comment

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Search for missing climber Micah Dash is called off due to bad weather.
Collection of video tributes to Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and the link to donate to the search fund.
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More details on the expedition to [...]

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Dave MacLeod’s Climbing and Training Tips Series

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Chris Sharma Climbs Pachamama, a New 9a+/5.15a in Spain

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Chris Sharma writes on his blog at MVM that he’s sent a new 9a+/5.15a project in Oliana, Spain called Pachamama.
His description of the route:
Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and very pumpy and psychological.
Read the full post at MVM for more details and [...]

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8a.nu Asks Who has the Best Home Gym in the World?

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If you’re looking for some inspiration for your home climbing wall, take a look at this thread on 8a.nu titled “Who has the best home gym in the world?”
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The Technology Behind Filming an Everest Ascent

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The National Geographic Adventure Travel blog interviews the First Ascent team about the technology behind their Everest filmmaking.
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