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More on finger injuries in climbing

 

As a chronic sufferer of finger injuries, I’ve sought out the most effective ways of preventing injury while climbing. While I’ve read in numerous books about stretching the fingers and forearms, not much discussion has gone into the stretching of individual fingers. Most climbing training books advise to stretch the fingers as a group.

From my own personal, non-scientific studies over the past six months or so, I’ve found that stretching each finger individually has demonstrated noticeable gains. By gains I’m referring to faster recovery from aches and pains and lack of new injuries.

My actual routine (in addition to all other warm-up and training for climbing) involves stretching each individual finger on both hands three times a day. Every day. I take each finger, pull it back, and hold for approximately ten seconds. I then do three sets of these three times a day. Most climbers will probably not have to go to this much effort. But for those of us who have been hampered by finger injuries, this type of prevention may just be the ticket.

I’d be interested in hearing about anyone else’s struggles with finger injuries and its prevention. Please send me an email or preferably, comment below.

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Written by Tom Markiewicz on Monday, January 24th, 2005 at 7:46 pm in Aid Climbing, Climbing Medicine, Injury Prevention, Training 

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Comments

4 Responses to “More on finger injuries in climbing”

  1. Tom Markiewicz on January 31st, 2005 10:27 pm

    New rock climbing blog site

    One of my non-professional passions is climbing in all its forms. I’ve been an avid rock and ice climber for many years now and instead of cluttering this blo

  2. Christian on July 28th, 2005 10:29 am

    I’ve recently began climbing and one thing I do for my fingers is ice them after I climb. It prevents swelling of the joints. For me, it seems to work as a method for quick recovery from finger-joint stress.

  3. Tom Markiewicz on July 29th, 2005 10:07 am

    I’ve found this to work well myself. I only tend to ice after a particularly hard session at the gym versus outside. I think climbing in the gym always stresses the tendons much more than climbing outside simply due to the fact that the typical climber is getting many more climbs in over a much shorter time period.

  4. JD on April 27th, 2008 12:15 pm

    Word is getting around about a new product called Climbers GripMate. I here it can be used for individual finger strengthen, and rehab of finger injuries for beginners to professionals. The web site is http://www.climbersgripmate.com

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