Peak Gritsone book review
February 28, 2005
Years ago I had the opportunity to do some bouldering on English gritstone while in the Peak District. Despite it being an ugly, rainy, gray day, I had an incredible time bouldering there.
Shady Goings On has a good review of Peak Gritstone: East by RockFax. The RockFax site also has some comprehensive resources for climbing in the area including accommodations, getting around, and maps to both the Eastern and Western Peak gritstone, Peak limestone, and Peak bouldering
Popularity: 100% [?]
Bouldering competition raises money for climbing area
February 26, 2005
The Tuscaloosa News reports that the Southeastern Climbing Coalition held the Moss Rock “Chalky Dreams” Bouldering Competition on February 19 at the Moss Rock Preserve in Birmingham, Alabama. The group held the event to raise funds to purchase a climbing area near Little River Canyon in northeast Alabama known as Jamestown.
Popularity: 8% [?]
Rope and climbing gear testing
February 26, 2005
Tom Moyer has a great web site called Tom Moyer’s Testing Page (what else?) that covers a full range of testing performed on climbing and rescue gear. Included are rescue rigger force calculations, highline drop-testing, comparative testing of high strength cord, and euro death-knot (aka flat overhand) testing. He has a variety of videos, papers, and test results all listed on the site.
Popularity: 1% [?]
High-altitude cerebral edema
February 26, 2005
Men’s Health has a piece on high-altitude cerebral edema. While the article is a novice’s account of climbing the Mexican volcano Pico de Orizaba, it provides great insight into how even the most physically trained people can fall victim.
High-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) can occur unpredictably at altitudes above 14,000 feet. Fluid fills the cavity between the brain and skull. The resulting pressure on gray matter induces headache, nausea, dizziness, emotionalism, seizures, disorientation, and, if left untreated (at higher altitudes, mostly), death. We all knew this. The best treatment is to head down the mountain. Immediately.
More information on climbing Mexican volcanoes can be found here and here.
Popularity: 8% [?]
Ethics in sport climbing
February 24, 2005
To many climbers, the title of this post sounds contradictory. But 8a.nu has an article on ethics and the practices of sport climbing.
In sport climbing, there are no written rules or judges like in all other sports. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates the Practice & Ethics. Beginners are struggling to understand what is normal behavior and why it’s like this. Over time, the procedures have been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply.
I think I see the European bias of the site in how it breaks down sport climbing ethics using soccer nomenclature: yellow and red cards.
Popularity: 14% [?]
Photography tutorial
February 24, 2005
Ever been disappointed with those climbing shots you took? Never fear that camera again, WheelsandWax.com has an excellent article on getting started in action sports photography. The first of a series, Intro to Action Sports Photography covers the basics starting with aperture and shutter speed.
Popularity: 3% [?]
But can they make you fly?
February 24, 2005
Originally posted on Epinions several years ago (2000), I thought I would re-post my review of the La Sportiva Mythos climbing shoes as the original review became obscured in Epinions categories.
La Sportiva Mythos Climbing Shoes
Pros:
Comfortable, multi-purpose, sensitive
Cons:
Laces are hard to replace
Full Review:
The multi-purpose La Sportiva Mythos is by far the best rock shoe I have ever worn (read on for disclaimer at end). Rock climbing for over ten years now, I have been to all types of crags. Not laying claim to belonging to either sport climbing or trad climbing, I like to try it all. This can be both a blessing as well as a curse. Though the variety of choice is great, being a climber willing to tackle any route takes its toll when hauling large amounts of gear to the crag. That said, I’m much happier when one piece of gear performs multiple functions. The Mythos is that Holy Grail!
I have owed my Mythos since 1995. Two other pairs of shoes add to my gear: Five Ten Summits and a pair of La Sportiva Cobras. The Mythos remain my favorite all-around choice especially for comfort. I have worn them many times on multi-pitch routes with no major foot pain. They have been resoled twice and are about ready for another. I have seen no performance decline though over the past five years. There have only been two minor problems with my shoes. First, the shoelaces broke and I had to re-lace (very difficult). Second, one of the small leather straps that hold the laces in place broke. Both of these were very minor problems that left no major performance issues.
The Mythos has a few more advantages. Since there is no lining or last in the shoe, it is extremely flexible. Features in the rock will actually contour to you feet and you will feel subtle nuances in the rock. This makes for excellent smearing. An added benefit though exists in the realm of sport climbing. You will actually grab some of those holds with your feet. The Mythos is that supple. All this flexibility would lead one to believe that these shoes perform poorly when edging. This is actually not the case. The Mythos is just at home cranking down on sharp edges as they are dancing up the slabs.
A general disclaimer to this review that should be applied to all rock shoes: they can be the best shoes in the world, but it doesn’t matter if they don’t fit your feet well. As always, try them on with many other models. If the Mythos fits, you will definitely ignore that high-end price tag.
UPDATE: Ok, now it’s 2005 and I’ve added additional shoes since then: Boreal Spirit, Mad Rock Flash, and La Sportiva Miura. The Mad Rocks are my every day “gym” shoe, but the Sportiva Miura’s have bested the Mythos as the best shoes I’ve worn. Watch for an upcoming review.
Popularity: 3% [?]
Strange place for bouldering
February 23, 2005
Of all the places I would expect to see an article on climbing, Popular Mechanics would definitely be somewhere near the bottom of the list.
Welcome to the world of bouldering, rock climbing’s little brother, climbing for those who are afraid of heights. Here, you trade the adrenaline rushes of high-altitude thrills for a low-altitude workout of technique and problem solving. And, unlike rock climbing, which may require you to travel hours to find a big rock, you can boulder literally in your backyard.
The article touches lightly on the bouldering available in New York’s Central Park. For more info on climbing in New York City, visit the ClimbNYC.com site.
Popularity: 1% [?]
Climbing in the Arabian desert
February 23, 2005
MountainZone.com offers an article about an unusual climbing destination: the Middle East. More specifically, Wadi Rum in Jordan.
Offering up everything from sick bouldering to crazy endurance aid climbs Wadi Rum sucked me in, and from there you can guess how my story has gone. Since my first trip to Wadi Rum I have gone back a number of times to continue exploring and learning about the people who call Wadi Rum their home. With seemingly endless possibilities for future adventurers to trail blaze their own vertical paths, Wadi Rum remains a climbing oasis in the Middle East.
For more information read Michael Cornn’s trip report. To start your travel plans, check out the Wadi Rum Mountain Guides.
Popularity: 1% [?]
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
February 23, 2005
The forearm pump. Is there a climber who is not familiar with these awful words? Every climber has their own methods of attempting to reduce the lactic acid burn and pumped forearms. The 8a.nu site has an article putting a little science behind the madness.
Popularity: 3% [?]
Conrad Anker
February 23, 2005
Gadling has a post pointing out Conrad Anker’s site. If you haven’t visited, it’s definitely worth checking out.
An accomplished alpinist, Conrad is also on the board of directors of The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF). A worthwhile cause, the ALCF was started in memory of Alex Lowe. I was fortunate to have seen a slide show by Alex in Washington DC years ago and will never forget the presentation as well as the conversation with him afterwards. He was truly a great person.
Popularity: 2% [?]
Climber missing on Mount Huntington
February 18, 2005
KTUU in Anchorage, Alaska reports that a climber is missing on 12,240-foot Mount Huntington. Apparently the 26-year-old Johnny Soderstrom, a mountaineering instructor, disappeared on the approach. His climbing partner, Joe Reichert, lost him as he skied behind Soderstrom. Mount Huntington, though shorter than Denali, is considered more difficult.
Popularity: 11% [?]
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