October 2007

Quick Sends – 10/31/07

by Tom Markiewicz on October 31, 2007

Tomaz Humar solos Annapurna South Face Markus Bock climbs a new 9a in Frankenjura West Face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies has its first ascent. planetFear shop closes Scottish team makes first free ascent of difficult Jorasses mixed route.

Climbing Video: Aid Climbing Rant

by Tom Markiewicz on October 25, 2007

Western Colorado Climbing posts a great little rant on aid climbing. His discussion of grading aid routes is quite humorous.

Choosing the perfect climbing partner

by Tom Markiewicz on October 24, 2007

Finding the perfect climbing partner is one of those aspects of our sport that unfortunately only occurs by trial and error. Uncooped has some tips for us though in an article on how to choose the perfect climbing partner. My personal criteria: I have to be able to have and enjoy conversations on long road […]

Quick Sends – 10/24/07

by Tom Markiewicz on October 24, 2007

The Carolina Climbers Coalition reports the Asheboro Boulderfield is open to climbing. Sean McColl maybe Canada’s best sport climber Ethan Pringle hits Yosemite Valley Patagonia retail stores are running an outdoor photo contest New Patagonia ice climbing route by Spanish team

Needles climbing video of multi-pitch trad routes

by Tom Markiewicz on October 22, 2007

ChossMonkey posts a climbing video of a trip to the Needles, California. There’s some nice footage of multi-pitch trad climbing on a variety of routes nicely put together.

Bouldering at Bozoo

by Tom Markiewicz on October 22, 2007

The weather is finally turning and we saw some cooler temps this past weekend. It was a great opportunity to get the bouldering season underway at a local crag called Bozoo Rocks in southern West Virginia. At about only 45 minutes away, Bozoo has been the local crag for Virginia Tech students and Blacksburg residents […]

Climbing Video: The Automator (V13)

by Tom Markiewicz on October 20, 2007

Jamie Emerson climbs Automator (V13) in Colorado (via Climbing Narcissist)

Quick Sends – 10/17/07

by Tom Markiewicz on October 17, 2007

Brief climbing news and notes from the past week delivered every Wednesday: Petzl RocTrip recaps this past weekend at the Red Steph Davis free solos Diamond four times Wheel of Life (V16) repeated Potential 5.15a in Rumney, NH Climber dies at Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks, NY (via rockclimbing.com) Slovenian-American team completed a highly productive visit […]

Base jumpers take sport to new level

by Tom Markiewicz on October 14, 2007

Every once in a while I run across a non-climbing link that I think my blog readers will really enjoy. This video (via Jeremiah Owyang) shows base jumpers using specialized suits to enable them to almost fly and perform maneuvers while being arms length from the cliff line. Quite impressive.

Petzl Charlet Sarken Crampon Recall

by Tom Markiewicz on October 12, 2007

Petzl has posted a recall for all its Petzl Charlet Sarken crampons. Recent customer experience has shown that the front points of SARKEN crampons are susceptible to premature wearout following heavy use. This means cracking of the metal forefoot near the front point(s), followed by possible breakage if usage continues. Petzl has stopped sales and […]

Climbing Video: British climbing film Psyche trailer

by Tom Markiewicz on October 12, 2007

Posing Productions has a trailer up for its new film, Psyche, premiering at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival. (via Get Outdoors)

Climbing Video: How the Huber brothers climb so quickly

by Tom Markiewicz on October 10, 2007

For some background on the Huber brothers recent speed records on The Nose, this trailer for their film, Am Limit, shows some of their techniques. Unfortunately, the audio is in German… now if I can find a translation… (via UKclimbing.com)