Quick Sends - 10/31/07
October 31, 2007
Tomaz Humar solos Annapurna South Face
Markus Bock climbs a new 9a in Frankenjura
West Face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies has its first ascent.
planetFear shop closes
Scottish team makes first free ascent of difficult Jorasses mixed route.
Popularity: 19% [?]
Climbing Video: Aid Climbing Rant
October 25, 2007
Western Colorado Climbing posts a great little rant on aid climbing. His discussion of grading aid routes is quite humorous.
Popularity: 11% [?]
Choosing the perfect climbing partner
October 24, 2007
Finding the perfect climbing partner is one of those aspects of our sport that unfortunately only occurs by trial and error.
Uncooped has some tips for us though in an article on how to choose the perfect climbing partner.
My personal criteria: I have to be able to have and enjoy conversations on long road trips. There’s nothing worse than sitting for hours in the car with nothing to talk about after discussing every aspect of climbing imaginable.
(via The Adventure Blog)
Popularity: 15% [?]
Quick Sends - 10/24/07
October 24, 2007
The Carolina Climbers Coalition reports the Asheboro Boulderfield is open to climbing.
Sean McColl maybe Canada’s best sport climber
Ethan Pringle hits Yosemite Valley
Patagonia retail stores are running an outdoor photo contest
New Patagonia ice climbing route by Spanish team
Popularity: 15% [?]
Needles climbing video of multi-pitch trad routes
October 22, 2007
ChossMonkey posts a climbing video of a trip to the Needles, California. There’s some nice footage of multi-pitch trad climbing on a variety of routes nicely put together.
Popularity: 9% [?]
Bouldering at Bozoo
October 22, 2007
The weather is finally turning and we saw some cooler temps this past weekend. It was a great opportunity to get the bouldering season underway at a local crag called Bozoo Rocks in southern West Virginia.
At about only 45 minutes away, Bozoo has been the local crag for Virginia Tech students and Blacksburg residents for years. Offering both routes and boulders, the rock is the same sandstone as the New River Gorge. During their time in Blacksburg, many climbers including Kenny Parker and Swiss Andy, left their mark on the crag.
The following are some pictures of Jon attempting a dyno on a V5/6 (French Tit?) across the stream near Savory Wall. The problem traverses left to right from the small flake/corner in the left of the picture to set up the dyno.
Setting up
Going for the dyno
Missing!
Here’s a shot of me on the classic Pocket Problem, V4
The entire set of pictures from our bouldering session at Bozoo can be found here.
Popularity: 22% [?]
Climbing Video: The Automator (V13)
October 20, 2007
Jamie Emerson climbs Automator (V13) in Colorado (via Climbing Narcissist)
Popularity: 14% [?]
Quick Sends - 10/17/07
October 17, 2007
Brief climbing news and notes from the past week delivered every Wednesday:
Petzl RocTrip recaps this past weekend at the Red
Steph Davis free solos Diamond four times
Climber dies at Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks, NY (via rockclimbing.com)
Slovenian-American team completed a highly productive visit to the Charakusa Valley in the Karakoram.
Popularity: 24% [?]
Base jumpers take sport to new level
October 14, 2007
Every once in a while I run across a non-climbing link that I think my blog readers will really enjoy.
This video (via Jeremiah Owyang) shows base jumpers using specialized suits to enable them to almost fly and perform maneuvers while being arms length from the cliff line. Quite impressive.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Petzl Charlet Sarken Crampon Recall
October 12, 2007
Petzl has posted a recall for all its Petzl Charlet Sarken crampons.
Recent customer experience has shown that the front points of SARKEN crampons are susceptible to premature wearout following heavy use. This means cracking of the metal forefoot near the front point(s), followed by possible breakage if usage continues.
Petzl has stopped sales and production of these crampons and is recalling all SARKEN crampon models because we feel that the potential lifetime of the crampons should be longer than user experience has demonstrated.
If you own these crampons, Petzl has instructions on their website.
Popularity: 13% [?]
Climbing Video: British climbing film Psyche trailer
October 12, 2007
Posing Productions has a trailer up for its new film, Psyche, premiering at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival.
(via Get Outdoors)
Popularity: 5% [?]
Climbing Video: How the Huber brothers climb so quickly
October 10, 2007
For some background on the Huber brothers recent speed records on The Nose, this trailer for their film, Am Limit, shows some of their techniques. Unfortunately, the audio is in German… now if I can find a translation… (via UKclimbing.com)
Popularity: 14% [?]
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