Akito Matsushima repeats Memento (8C+/V16)
September 22, 2008
Some breaking news - Twitter user @yozyozyoz from Tokyo reports to All Climbing that Japanese climber Akito Matsushima repeated Memento (8C+/V16).
Popularity: 11% [?]
Video of Chris Sharma bouldering in the Ozarks
September 18, 2008
Following yesterday’s post on Chris Sharma sending Jumbo Love, I stumbled on a video of Sharma bouldering in the Ozarks (via VideoClimb.com).
Popularity: 12% [?]
Announcing ClimbingVibe
September 17, 2008
Today I’m announcing the launch of ClimbingVibe, a community driven links site for climbing, bouldering, and mountaineering related articles and blog posts.
ClimbingVibe quickly lets you find the most relevant and interesting climbing content. When I started blogging on All Climbing, there were surprisingly few climbing blogs. Now there are hundreds and it’s tough to read them all (and believe me, I am trying). And that doesn’t include the various other climbing sites, portals, forums, and online magazines.
The main goals of ClimbingVibe are to make it easier for climbers to find quality posts and to promote the best climbing writing on the internet. I’ve been posting interesting climbing links and news in short “Quick Sends” posts, but there is simply too much good stuff to always get them in these. ClimbingVibe will hopefully fill this need.
Composed of short posts, ClimbingVibe items typically highlight a single link. Posts and comments on these items can be made by anyone (even anonymously), but to reduce spam numerous protections have been built in.
New visitors to the site are also encouraged to register. Registering, while not required to read or comment on posts, provides the following benefits:
- Ability to vote on posted climbing items.
- Posts and comments include the full URL to your website or blog.
- CAPTCHAs on posts and comments disappear when you’re logged in.
The site initially has a minimalist layout by design, but this will likely change quickly as the site grows.
There are some exciting features that will be released in the upcoming months as development continues. The major ones will be mentioned briefly here on All Climbing and the rest will be posted to ClimbingVibe itself.
I’m very interested in what you think. Please comment your thoughts on this and leave any suggestions to improving the site.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Chris Sharma sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain
September 17, 2008
Chris Sharma has sent his project at Clark Mountain called Jumbo Love, suggesting a rating of 5.15b and likely the hardest route he’s ever done.
From Climbing Narcissist:
Jumbo Love begins with 60 ft. of 5.12d climbing followed by 100 ft of steep and bouldery 5.14c. THEN you get to the hard part which is followed by some easier 5.13+ climbing that takes you to the top of the cliff (literally!). Just think about that for a second. You have to navigate 160 ft of 5.14c climbing just to get to the hardest parts of Jumbo Love!
More details on Chris Sharma’s send of Jumbo Love can be found on the Big UP blog, Climbing Narcissist, Rock & Ice, the Petzl blog, Climbing magazine, and Alpinist.
Popularity: 14% [?]
Review of the Reel Rock Tour Premier
September 11, 2008
You know you’re watching a great climbing film when your palms are sweating and you start trying to chalk up. Most of the films presented last night at the Reel Rock Tour gave me that reaction and I was pleasantly surprised. With so many trailers and clips floating around the Internet, I think I started to get a bit jaded; but the Reel Rock Tour delivered in a big way. Read more
Popularity: 11% [?]
Reel Rock Tour kicks off this week
September 8, 2008
The Reel Rock Tour kicks off in Boulder, Colorado this Wednesday. The third annual edition of the event will eventually hit over 80 cities to show climbing films including those from Sender Films and Big UP Productions.
This year there is also a filmmaking competition, where anyone could submit their best three minute climbing film.
I’ve already bought my tickets and will be attending the premier in Boulder. Check their calendar to see if the tour is coming to your city.
Popularity: 9% [?]
Angie Payne sends V12 in Rocky Mountain National Park
September 5, 2008
Just starting to get caught up on a lot of news this morning, but apparently some great bouldering happened in Colorado very recently.
Jamie Emerson reports that Angie Payne made the first female ascent of European Human Being (V12) in Rocky Mountain National Park.
pimpin’ and crimpin’ has some additional photos of Angie on the problem from a prior attempt.
Finally, the ClimbingNarc gives us full coverage of not only Angie Payne, but also of Alex Johnson’s recent send of Clear Blue Skies (V12) and Alex Puccio’s send of The Marble SDS (V11/12) all in Rocky Mountain National Park.
ClimbingNarc also makes a great point about reporting “first female ascents.” As women continue to push grades as hard as men, hopefully we can eventually stop designating between the two. I’ve been as guilty on this blog as everyone else in covering this, but the sooner it becomes simply about the climber and their significant achievement, regardless of gender, the better.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Climbing Video: Top 20 classic boulder problems in North America
September 4, 2008
While the “top X” of anything can be heartily debated, take a look at this clip from The Top 20 Classic Boulder Problems of North America released last year by Flashed Climbing and Rock & Ice.
Over 500 top climbers were asked to name the most classic boulder problems in North America. This is a countdown of the top 20. The all female cast features some of the sports top climbers with each problem show casing a different athlete such as Cerre Francis, Kate Reese, Charlotte Jouett, Alli Rainey, and others. Director and producer Nathan Cando has created trailers for Hollywood blockbusters such as Gladiator and now brings his talent to the climbing industry.
Included in this trailer is footage of the following boulder problems:
- The Pearl, V4, Red Rocks, NV
- Bumboy, V4, Horsepens 40, AL
- Pinch Overhang, V7, Horsetooth Reservoir, CO
- Anorexic, V5, Priest Draw, Flagstaff, AZ
If you’ve seen the entire film, what would you change about their list?
Popularity: 11% [?]
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