How to make a prusik knot

by Tom Markiewicz on October 8, 2008

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!


The prusik hitch may be pretty basic for many readers, but there are certain essential knots that every climber should know.

The American Alpine Institute has posted a great video illustrating the prusik knot.

Alpinists keep a variety of technical tools in their back-pockets. One of the most important tools is the prusik hitch. The prusik hitch is most commonly used for crevasse rescue systems on a glacier, for rock rescue systems, and for climbing fixed lines.

In addition to their stated uses, I would add that my two most common uses have been to back up a rappel and to ascend a rope after a sketchy (and usually ill-advised) rappel.

Trust me, make sure you learn it!

 [Post to Twitter] Tweet This

{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Kate C 10.08.08 at 10:13 am

Nice link! A few years ago, we spent a couple days polishing our multi-pitch climbing with Exum in the Tetons. Mark and I were taught to carry a mid-size locking biner on our haul loops with three things on it. 1 - a length of cord tied for a prussic. 2 - a tibloc. And 3 - a small knife. Those four tiny items (incl the biner) are infinitely useful. Makes me want to carry them around in my purse too.

2 Tom Markiewicz 10.08.08 at 10:17 am

Kate, that’s a great piece of advice. I also try to remember to carry a small knife on multi-pitch routes. There are just too many things that can go wrong that a small kit on a biner would solve.

I almost always have a loop of cord for prusiks on my harness - and usually get funny looks…

3 Kiri 10.08.08 at 11:46 am

Do you know if they will be making videos for any other knots or hitches? Although I already know how to use a prusik, I thought this video was great for review with plenty of detail in the steps. Much easier than trying to learn knots from a book.

4 joel 10.08.08 at 1:52 pm

Nice work. Here’s a video on how to make a rope backpack, also useful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgyjRADdj34

5 Deborah 11.02.08 at 1:35 am

Great link thanks

6 JimK 11.23.08 at 3:35 pm

If you only need to add a Prusik to a loose bight, this approach works well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KViVAGS9eDU&feature=channel

As a recent project, this maps out the one handed techniques for knot tying. Here’s the clove as an example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPuY3XVMwO0&feature=channel

7 Samson 12.10.08 at 1:02 pm

Nice! Are you planning on adding additional knot tying demonstrations as they become available? Just wondering if I need to link to the AAI or come here…

8 Tom Markiewicz 01.12.09 at 2:30 pm

Samson - yes, I definitely plan to add more as they become available

Leave a Comment

You can use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Previous post: Trailer for the upcoming Echo Wall climbing film

Next post: Hardest Boulder Problems in America