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How to make a prusik knot

 


The prusik hitch may be pretty basic for many readers, but there are certain essential knots that every climber should know.

The American Alpine Institute has posted a great video illustrating the prusik knot.

Alpinists keep a variety of technical tools in their back-pockets. One of the most important tools is the prusik hitch. The prusik hitch is most commonly used for crevasse rescue systems on a glacier, for rock rescue systems, and for climbing fixed lines.

In addition to their stated uses, I would add that my two most common uses have been to back up a rappel and to ascend a rope after a sketchy (and usually ill-advised) rappel.

Trust me, make sure you learn it!

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Written by Tom Markiewicz on Wednesday, October 8th, 2008 at 7:44 am in Technique, Videos 

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5 Responses to “How to make a prusik knot”

  1. Kate C on October 8th, 2008 10:13 am

    Nice link! A few years ago, we spent a couple days polishing our multi-pitch climbing with Exum in the Tetons. Mark and I were taught to carry a mid-size locking biner on our haul loops with three things on it. 1 - a length of cord tied for a prussic. 2 - a tibloc. And 3 - a small knife. Those four tiny items (incl the biner) are infinitely useful. Makes me want to carry them around in my purse too.

  2. Tom Markiewicz on October 8th, 2008 10:17 am

    Kate, that’s a great piece of advice. I also try to remember to carry a small knife on multi-pitch routes. There are just too many things that can go wrong that a small kit on a biner would solve.

    I almost always have a loop of cord for prusiks on my harness - and usually get funny looks…

  3. Kiri on October 8th, 2008 11:46 am

    Do you know if they will be making videos for any other knots or hitches? Although I already know how to use a prusik, I thought this video was great for review with plenty of detail in the steps. Much easier than trying to learn knots from a book.

  4. joel on October 8th, 2008 1:52 pm

    Nice work. Here’s a video on how to make a rope backpack, also useful:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgyjRADdj34

  5. Deborah on November 2nd, 2008 1:35 am

    Great link thanks

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