Followup to Climbing Shoe Rubber Test Results
November 27, 2008
Mark Silliman, founder of Spadout, provided me the following feedback on the climbing shoe rubber study I recently posted:
I wouldn’t have touched the climbing rubber test if I wasn’t willing to get criticized. This is a very hot topic. Obviously tests will always only determine how well products do against that individual test. Our goal was to create a simple test that everyone could appreciate and repeat at home (the total cost is < $1k and would be much less if you already had some shoes laying around).
The test is valid for Granite and EGrips holds. Therefore it is responsible for us to publish the results. The additional tests are not to question the results of the earlier test. They are to include more rock / plastic types as well as a few other variables (potentially wetness, temperature, edge holding, etc++).
Now that I’ve said that: We are all for positive and negative feedback. Our goal is to create the #1 gear testing website in 24 months (a huge project and investment on our end but we’re extremely excited about it and have a world class team). Rip our tests to shred. Telling us everything is great doesn’t help us get you a better product. I guarantee we are reading your reader’s feedback and taking it seriously.
Spadout has become what it is today by listening to our reader’s feedback and that won’t change.
There’s also an interesting thread on this study over at SuperTopo.
Finally, Rock & Ice addressed the question of what makes climbing rubber sticky?
Popularity: 7% [?]
Top Climbing Gear Deals for the Holidays
November 26, 2008
It’s that time of year again. The holiday season is upon us and retailers will be going especially crazy this year to try and boost sales in this recessionary climate. I don’t know about you, but I stay away from the stores on Black Friday and do any shopping entirely online.
With that in mind, I decided to dig up all the deals I could find on climbing gear over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. Here’s what I found:
Deals Ending Today (11/26/08)
Altrec - 30% Off Holiday Sale (I used this deal to buy Prana Axiom jeans this morning!)
Thanksgiving Deals (starting 11/26/08)
Sierra Trading Post - 15% off entire order, no minimums, use code ABLACKCYBER8
Altrec - Stay at Home Sale, 20% off coupon STAYHOME
REI - Winter Sale (through 12/1)
REI - Mega Vendor Free Shipping (Free shipping on entire order with purchase of The North Face, Keen, Marmot, Delorme, Garmin, or Tom Tom GPS - through 12/1)
Moosejaw - 10% Off Sale, use coupon code “Supersale”
Cloudveil - Backroom Sale & Discount Items
Backcountry.com - 20% off clothing, use coupon code 3PU-1-R38LT
Boulder Mountaineering - Fall Clearance Sale
Black Friday (starting 11/28/08)
Prana Store - was told by manager of Boulder retail store that there will be many items on sale Friday - no further details though.
Cyber Monday (starting 11/28/08)
North Face - Free Shipping, No Minimum Purchase
Other, Ongoing Deals and Specials
MonBell - Free Ground Shipping (through 12/25)
gearExpress - On Sale and Blowouts (I’ve bought from the Blowouts page many times and have received greats deals and top notch service.)
Mountain Tools - Steals Sale
Mountain Gear - Deal of the Day
Mountain Gear - $15 off $75 (through 12/1/08)
Altrec - Deal of the Day
REI Outlet - Deal of the Week
BackcountryOutlet.com - Clearance Bin, at least 50% off
I hope this helps you to pick up some great deals on climbing gear. If you see any other good deals on gear, please share in the comments!
Popularity: 7% [?]
Climbing Video: Natalija Gros Climbs Histerija 8c+
November 25, 2008
Natalija Gros of Slovenia makes an ascent of Histerija (8c+) in this documentary video of sport climbing.
The clip has great climbing footage and the musical score is very different from what is normally heard on most climbing videos, but it absolutely fits well here.
Natalija Gros from Jure Breceljnik on Vimeo.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Climbing Shoe Rubber Test Results
November 24, 2008
Most climbers have a preference for climbing shoe rubber and love to argue about which is the best. Spadout sponsored a test of nine popular climbing shoe rubbers and published the results. The surprising winner was the Evolv Trax XT-5.
There is one big issue I’d like to point out in this study. The test was based on calculating the coefficient of friction between the climbing rubber and the surface. In this study, they only looked at the rubber on granite and on a climbing hold (EGrip’s Peabody Crimp Plate). Each surface type will interact with the climbing rubber differently producing varied coefficients of friction.
In my opinion, looking at only these two surfaces is not enough to declare any rubber superior. I’d like to see the same study performed across many rock surfaces as well as different climbing hold manufacturers. From this new data, a more accurate average could emerge and shine some light on who makes the stickiest climbing shoe rubber.
Popularity: 8% [?]
Climbing Food Review: Clif ZBars
November 19, 2008
Today’s guest post is from Ryan Wanger, a climber who writes at The Reluctant Eater.
Clif. The name is synonymous with climbing (perhaps it’s the logo?). If you’re like me, then you’ve always enjoyed Clif Bars, but rarely buy them because frankly, you’re a cheapskate. Nutritious? Yep. All natural? Absolutely. Tasty? You betcha! In fact, it’s amazing that anyone can successfully sell any product to a bunch of jobless, dirtbag climbers like ourselves, right? We’d rather just eat the dust of last weeks trail mix!
Popularity: 7% [?]
Adam Ondra Repeats Open Air 9a+
November 18, 2008
Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Alex Huber’s 55m long Open Air (9a+) at Schleier Wasserfall, Austria. Huber established the route in 1996 and it took Ondra nine attempts over five days for the recent send. (via UKClimbing.com, Czech Climbing, and Momentum Video)
Popularity: 7% [?]
Better Way to Mark Your Climbing Gear
November 14, 2008
The GearFlogger reviews an insanely useful accessory for climbing gear. The Mark epoxy from Boulder Based Designs is
like a condom for your gear: a prophylactic to prevent that expensive piece from walking away, accidentally or otherwise. Just mix the two ingredients and have about a 30 minute working time to apply to gear. 24 hours later it’s bombproof. literally: there may be some chemical to get it off but there’s no way mechanical friction or impact will do it.
Looks much better than the colored electrical tape I’ve been using for years that keeps falling off.
The Mark comes in four colors, has enough for making 250 marks, and retails for $14.95.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Adventure Film Festival Celebrates Five Years
November 6, 2008
Entering its fifth year, the 2008 Adventure Film Festival starts today and ends November 11 in Boulder, Colorado. Focusing on all types of adventure, the festival bills itself as an international venue for independent films.
“I’ve been exposed to an incredible world of adventure through years of expeditions and work in outdoor media,” said founder Jonny Copp, a photographer, writer and filmmaker whose work has appeared in Outside Magazine, National Geographic Adventure, Climbing Magazine and Men’s Journal. “We created this film festival because there is powerful medicine within these stories. … (They) have the power to change us and change the world.”
Here are the festival’s “official selections” and the major award winners this year:
- People’s Choice - Living With Grizzlies by Jeff Turner
- Best Cultural Documentary - Recycled Life by Leslie Iwerks and Mike Glad
- Best Action Film - Seasons by The Collective
- Best Climbing Film - The Sharp End by Sender Films
- Activism Through Adventure - Sharkwater by Rob Stewart
- Best Surfing Film - Sliding Liberia by Britton Caillouette & Nicholai Lidow
- Intrepid Travel Award - A Map For Saturday by Brook Silva-Braga
- Best Whitewater Film - Source by Young Gun Productions
- Make Your Own Legends Award - Klunkerz by Billy Savage
Unfortunately, I’m out of town this weekend and will not be able to provide a review. If anyone attends, please leave a comment and let us know how the festival went.
Popularity: 7% [?]
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