Mark Silliman, founder of Spadout, provided me the following feedback on the climbing shoe rubber study I recently posted:
I wouldn’t have touched the climbing rubber test if I wasn’t willing to get criticized. This is a very hot topic. Obviously tests will always only determine how well products do against that individual test. Our goal was to create a simple test that everyone could appreciate and repeat at home (the total cost is < $1k and would be much less if you already had some shoes laying around).
The test is valid for Granite and EGrips holds. Therefore it is responsible for us to publish the results. The additional tests are not to question the results of the earlier test. They are to include more rock / plastic types as well as a few other variables (potentially wetness, temperature, edge holding, etc++).
Now that I’ve said that: We are all for positive and negative feedback. Our goal is to create the #1 gear testing website in 24 months (a huge project and investment on our end but we’re extremely excited about it and have a world class team). Rip our tests to shred. Telling us everything is great doesn’t help us get you a better product. I guarantee we are reading your reader’s feedback and taking it seriously.
Spadout has become what it is today by listening to our reader’s feedback and that won’t change.
There’s also an interesting thread on this study over at SuperTopo.
Finally, Rock & Ice addressed the question of what makes climbing rubber sticky?