March 2009

Ice Climber at Vail Survives Fall Due to Anchor Failure

by Tom Markiewicz on March 30, 2009

A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo) From the article: At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now […]

The Accessorized Trad Climber from Pimpin and Crimpin

by Tom Markiewicz on March 27, 2009

Pimpin and Crimpin has a hilarious post up on the accessorized trad climber. Check it out and I guarantee you’ll laugh! Duct Tape: For some reason that I will never understand, trad climbers have an affinity for duct tape that is almost as creepy as a mustachioed man winking at five year olds. What they […]

Rocky Mountain Highball Trailer

by Tom Markiewicz on March 26, 2009

Back in February, I reviewed the climbing movie Pure. At that film’s premier in Boulder, the audience had the first glimpse of the upcoming film, Rocky Mountain Highball. At the time, I remember being very excited for the premier on April 27. I’m not 100% positive, but this latest trailer seems to be much longer […]

The Future of Climbing and Technology – Part 2

by Tom Markiewicz on March 23, 2009

In the first part of this series, I questioned whether traditional climbing magazines can still thrive or will we see a faster migration to online only publications? Peter Beal and Dougald MacDonald both have some interested perspectives on this issue and I’d like to expand further on the topic. Personally, I still enjoy reading climbing […]

Alex Johnson Sends Maze of Death

by Tom Markiewicz on March 20, 2009

Alex Johnson sent Maze of Death (V12) on only five attempts for the second female ascent. The problem is located in the Bardini boulders at Bishop. (via Bishop Bouldering Blog, Kelly McBride, and TheLowDown)

Can You Give Back By Buying Gear?

by Tom Markiewicz on March 20, 2009

The Cupcake Mafia questions whether you can give back by buying gear. Between working to set-up the auction and receiving my REI dividend this week I have been thinking a lot about buying gear. As you‚??ll note from my previous blog, Gear on the Brain, my decision making was based on how much I can […] Under New Management

by Tom Markiewicz on March 19, 2009

Popular rock climbing portal is under new management again. Citing economic conditions, they’re reconfiguring ownership and dropping Jay Young as a full-time, salaried publisher (via @theclimbergirl)., together with its sister sites and, were purchased by NameMedia last year and operated by them since then. Unfortunately, as the economy worsened over the […]

Nicely done climbing video of bouldering in the Buttermilks (Bishop, California) from Jon Glassberg featuring sends of Pope’s Prow (V5), Checkerboard (V8), Stained Glass (V10), Evilution to the Lip (V10), and The Mandala (V12). The Buttermilks from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Confirmations from the Publisher on the Alpinist Relaunch

by Tom Markiewicz on March 18, 2009

The other day I wrote about the reports of Michael Kennedy editing the new Alpinist. If you haven’t had enough of the Alpinist news, there’s even more. Alpinist released a press release which clarified a few points: Founded by Christian Beckwith and Marc Ewing and operated in Jackson, Wyoming, until the autumn of last year, […]

Great Deal on Athletic Tape for Climbing

by Tom Markiewicz on March 16, 2009

I’m always going through a lot of tape for my fingers, but buying it at REI or other retail stores is getting ridiculously expensive. I did manage to find a great deal on Amazon a few days ago, but I was almost skeptical at the low price per roll. My order just showed up and […]

Updates on the Alpinist Relaunch

by Tom Markiewicz on March 16, 2009

Dougald MacDonald reports that Michael Kennedy is going to edit the new Alpinist. Kennedy edited and published Climbing magazine for more than two decades before selling the magazine in 1997. Along with being one of America’s top alpine climbers of the 1970s and ‚??80s, he created a magazine with authoritative articles and elegant design, and […]

The Future of Technology and Climbing – Part 1

by Tom Markiewicz on March 12, 2009

Late last year my wife and I bought a house in Colorado and we went through all the normal stressful steps accompanying it. At one point during the process, I received a return phone call from my real estate agent from an unusual place – he was climbing the Third Flatiron! Now my first jealous […]