June 2009

Climbing video of Will Stanhope nearly hitting the second to last hold of Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish before popping off. He later went on to make the fifth ascent of the route. The Cobra Crack 5.14, Will Stanhope from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo. (via Sonnie Trotter)

Quick Sends – 6/26/09

by Tom Markiewicz on June 26, 2009

The Access Fund signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Park Service (NPS) outlining a relationship between climbers and the NPS. Nalle Hukkataival is in Colorado sending Jade (V15) and establishing a new V13 called Sunseeker. Adam Ondra repeats Alex Huber’s Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. Om sat unrepeated for 17 years after HuberÔ??s […]

A new Harvard study confirms the health risks associated with BPA in polycarbonate water bottles. We found that drinking cold liquids from polycarbonate bottles for just one week increased urinary BPA levels by more than two-thirds. If you heat those bottles, as is the case with baby bottles, we would expect the levels to be […]

Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips

by Tom Markiewicz on June 24, 2009

Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips. Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but there was a day when there was only trad. Trad climbing may be analogous […]

Will Gadd on Tragedy

by Tom Markiewicz on June 22, 2009

Will Gadd writes a provocative post on the recent deaths of Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and using the tragedy label. For me I’m never going to use the word “tragedy” in reference to a climbing or mountain sports accident again. A tragedy is when a whole family gets killed by a drunk […]

Climbing Magazine has a detailed bouldering tech tip on how to top out on a boulder problem (obviously for those slopey, nasty ones).

Quick Sends – 6/12/09

by Tom Markiewicz on June 12, 2009

Search for missing climber Micah Dash is called off due to bad weather. Collection of video tributes to Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and the link to donate to the search fund. The Spot Gym is holding a fundraiser for the The Search Fund on Tuesday, June 16th in Boulder. More details on […]

Dave MacLeod’s Climbing and Training Tips Series

by Tom Markiewicz on June 3, 2009

Dave MacLeod is writing a series of introductory articles for the Mountaineering Council of ScotlandÔ??s magazine and site. You can find the first three parts here and the fourth is due this August. The articles are PDFs and contain some great tips for climbing and training from the Scottish hardman.

Chris Sharma writes on his blog at MVM that he’s sent a new 9a+/5.15a project in Oliana, Spain called Pachamama. His description of the route: Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and very pumpy and psychological. Read the full post at MVM for […]