July 2009

Sonnie Trotter getting the third ascent of Master Blaster (5.13c/d) in Zion National Park. From Trotter: The climb was first freed by Seattle bad ass Ben Gilkinson, and Lauren Lee and I made the Second and Third ascents, back to back. It was a great experience because the exposure was stunning, but the cracks size, […]

Using a Sharpie to Mark the Middle of a Rope

by Tom Markiewicz on July 29, 2009

Black Diamond’s QC Lab tries to answer the frequently asked question of whether climbers can use a Sharpie marker to mark the middle of a rope. The results – undetermined.

How to Clean Carabiners

by Tom Markiewicz on July 28, 2009

Stewart Green writes up a mini-guide on how to clean your carabiners (including what not to do).

Review: Vibram Five Fingers Shoes

by Tom Markiewicz on July 27, 2009

My good friend Ryan Wanger wouldn’t stop talking about his new shoes, so I made him write a review. He is the Community Manager for the Boulder based startup Everlater, which helps people record their travel experiences with friends and family. Let me make this clear: my review of Vibram Five Fingers shoes is self […]

Treatment of Climbing Injuries Increases

by Tom Markiewicz on July 27, 2009

ClimbingNarc points out a fascinating study showing that the treatment of climbing injuries has increased 63% from 1990 to 2007.

Climbing Gear Review Roundup – 7/21/09

by Tom Markiewicz on July 21, 2009

In advance of everything that will be coming out of the Outdoor Retailer show, here is a roundup of gear reviews from the past month or so. GearFlogger looks at pro reviewing the DMM Wallnuts and also reviews the Arc’Teryx Dually belay parka. Cupcake Mafia reviews the PrAna Natural Sticky Mat for yoga and the […]

Black Diamond on Autoblock Misuse

by Tom Markiewicz on July 16, 2009

Black Diamond’s quality control lab tested autoblock belay device common misuses and provided extensive details. Specifically they looked at: – incorrectly using a standard belay device as an autoblock device – using multiple biners as the ‚??brake bar‚?Ě in order to make taking in rope easier Regarding the multiple carabiner test, they found that using […]

120 Moves of Climbing

by Tom Markiewicz on July 15, 2009

I’ve started reading the book One Move Too Many as it was recommended to me by several different climbers. I’ll be posting my full thoughts when I’ve finished the book, but I can already tell you that this is a must have for any climber, especially those dealing with specific injuries. One idea from the […]

Climbing Video: Whippers at the Red

by Tom Markiewicz on July 14, 2009

Climbing video of what appears to be hundreds of whippers at the Red River Gorge. (via @lstefurak, @mark_spottswood)

Review: Clif Quench Sport Drink

by Tom Markiewicz on July 13, 2009

While grocery shopping the other day, I saw a large display for the new Clif Quench sport drinks. I vaguely remembered hearing about these, so I decided to buy one of each flavor and try them out. Let me start off by saying that my primary sports drinks are massive quantities of coffee in the […]

Climbing Video: Remembering John Bachar

by Tom Markiewicz on July 6, 2009

I searched through All Climbing’s video network and found this clip from a movie about John Bachar. In July 1981 a note appeared in Yosemite Valley – “$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day. – John Bachar”

John Bachar Died in Soloing Accident

by Tom Markiewicz on July 6, 2009

Sad news in the climbing world. Climbing legend John Bachar, age 51, was found at the base of the Dike Wall in Mammoth Lakes, California yesterday. There are not many details at this point, but it’s presumed that he was free soloing. The Dike Wall is a beautiful cliff of pristine granite situated at 9,000ft […]