Kolin Powick from Black Diamond posted another excellent gear testing article, this time on the different methods of extending slings on cam placements. He illustrates the three common methods he uses (same as mine) and then examines a sling-on-sling approach he thought was dicey.
The sling-on-sling method of extending a cam sling does save the use of a biner but in my opinion is cumbersome for both the leader and the second. It also appears to reduce the ultimate strength of the system, however, in most cases not so much as to be the weakest link in a real-world climbing situation.
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I agree that the sling-on-sling solution is rather cumbersome, especially for the second, but there are some placements where it is necessary. Deeper horizontal placements can sometimes lever the biner against an edge. Although its good to know that this weakens the strength of the sling. Sounds like its something to be avoided unless absolutely necessary.
This is a really nice article…well written…
IO was always concerned about the durability of the gear. You need to be 100% sure it won’t break. I guess once you have had 2-3 trips you understand the gear in a much better way.