Quick Sends - 7/3/08
July 3, 2008
Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set new speed record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite
Results of the lead-climbing competition in China
Yosemite Museum at Yosemite National Park is featuring new exhibit dedicated to rock climbing
Bill to ban bisphenol-A (BPA) was introduced to Congress
Nau purchased and re-opend by Horny Toad
Popularity: 2% [?]
Omega Pacific issues inspection notice for Link Cams
June 13, 2008
Omega Pacific recently released a notice instructing owners of their Link Cams to look for a potential defect:
In May 2008, we became aware of situations in which axle nuts were not properly and permanently fixed on the axle assemblies permitting the cams to potentially become disassembled. Upon receiving the units, our Quality Assurance department launched an exhaustive investigation to determine the cause and establish correction of the issue.
Our QA inspectors have determined that the returned units were allowed to progress from one assembly station to the next without this important step having been completed.
It was determined, based on identification by lot numbers, that the cams returned were manufactured prior to the implementation of upgraded quality assurance procedures and employee training sessions which were instituted in May 2007. At that point, new work instructions were written, additional quality inspection steps were introduced and employees were either reassigned or retrained to reduce the likelihood of such lapses in quality from occurring.
Full information, including how to determine if your Link Cam needs to be repaired, can be found at the Omega Pacific web site here.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Quick Sends - 6/11/08
June 11, 2008
Sonnie Trotter repeats Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (E11/5.14c R) in Great Britain
Hot Aches Productions writes about filming Rhapsody
Tommy Caldwell frees Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) on El Cap in 20 hours and 2 minutes
Results from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado
Dosage Vol. 5 world premiere review
Popularity: 10% [?]
Quick Sends - 6/4/08
June 4, 2008
One of my favorite new climbing bloggers, RockClimberGirl, is featured in an interview on FrontRangeBouldering.com.
Chris Sharma climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Spain
Recap of the Telluride Mountainfilm Festival
Steve McClure climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Yorkshire, U.K.
Ueli Steck wins 2008 Eiger Award
The Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant applications are due June 15th
Results of the Dimarock International Climbing competition
Alpinist has an update of the Alaska Range climbing season
Popularity: 12% [?]
Quick Sends - 5/22/08
May 22, 2008
Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong make first free ascent of El Capitan’s Magic Mushroom
Adam Ondra repeats Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura
Nicolas Favresse repeated Greenspit (8b+), a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe
Markus Bock climbs possible new 9a in the German Frankenjura
Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have completed the first ascent of the Bat’s Ears, the highest unclimbed Alaskan peak
The New York Times covers the Fred Hutchinson Climb for Cancer
Review of the Melloblocco bouldering weekend
Popularity: 12% [?]
Quick Sends - 5/12/08
May 12, 2008
The Olympic torch reaches the summit of Mt. Everest
Rocky Mountain National Park may get wilderness protection
Dream in Vertical takes us on a Bishop bouldering trip with tons of pics
Barbara Zangerl makes first female ascent of Pura Vida (8A+/B) in Magic Wood, Switzerland
Daniel Woods completes new 8c in Magic Wood
Check CAMP Tricams for possible problems
Peter Beal’s essay on climbing past 40 on FrontRangeBouldering.com
Popularity: 13% [?]
Quick Sends - 5/7/08
May 7, 2008
Spanish climber Rafael Guillen dies on Dhaulagiri
Adam Ondra sends Unplugged (9a) in Frankenjura, Germany
Daniel Woods sends first ascent of Metamorphosis (8b+/V14) in Switzerland’s Magic Wood
David Lama and Anna Stöhr won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2008
Dr. Topo releases Big in Japan Double Feature to DVD
Interview with Henry Barber from the Southeastern Climbers Coalition
Joe Kinder completes Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah
Rock Climber Girl discusses the fear of falling
Review of the Metolius Master Cam
Popularity: 13% [?]
Quick Sends - 4/22/08
April 22, 2008
Daniel Woods finished third in the first bouldering World Cup of 2008 in Austria.
Steph Davis sends testpiece Concepcion near Moab, Utah.
Dave Graham completes V15 at Fontainebleau, France (via Joost).
Dave Macleod to highlight the 15th Annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, Wyoming.
Everest film by David Breashears to air on PBS uesday, May 13, from 9 to 11 p.m. ET.
PlanetMountain.com reports on ice climbing in Japan.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Red Rock Rendezvous Review
April 9, 2008
The Backcountry Blog has an insightful and partially negative view of the recent Red Rock Rendezvous.
As it turns out, being a pro climber does not necessarily make you a great instructor. It does make you an excellent advertiser though, and it was clearly conveyed what company makes the best equipment.
While the author didn’t appreciate the trad clinic, apparently the rest of the event was a great success.
I’ve been meaning to attend this rendezvous the past few years and have never made it. Did anyone attend this years Red Rock Rendezvous and have similar experiences?
Popularity: 13% [?]
Another climbing gym in Boulder?
April 9, 2008
The ClimbingNarc reports that a new climbing gym is coming to Boulder.
Why is this news? There’s already three good sized gyms in Boulder already. But as I found out in my trip to Boulder a couple weeks ago, everyone you meet there is a climber. I’d love to see actual numbers on what percentage of the population in Boulder actually considers themselves a climber though.
It’s a safe bet that the founders of this new gym did their research and the demand is there. On a personal note, now that I’m moving out there, I welcome more indoor climbing gym opportunities!
To be honest, I’m having a hard time going to my local climbing gym with the prospect of having bigger and better gyms available in the very near future. Ahh, a tough problem to have, right?
Popularity: 13% [?]
Registration for New River Rendezvous getting full
March 27, 2008
I’ve heard reports that the New River Rendezvous registration is starting to get full. This year organizers are limiting the event to the first 700 climbers who register in advance.
The fee is only $25 and from my past experiences at the Rendezvous, it will be money well spent.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Climbing events for April
March 24, 2008
Spring is rapidly approaching so we’re starting to see numerous climbing-related events on the radar. Here is a current list of climbing events for April 2008:
April 4-6 - Spring Fling Quartz Gathering, Quartz Mountain, OK
April 4-6 - Warrior’s Way and New River Mountain Guides Trad Camp, New River Gorge, WV
April 6 - YMCA Climb-Off ‘08, North Canton, OH
April 12 - 8th Annual Crux the Competition, Radford, VA
April 13 - Radical Reels, Boulder, CO
April 16 - Galen and Barbara Rowell Lecture Series [tickets], San Francisco, CA
April 18-19 - ClimbFest Ogden 2008, Ogden, UT
April 19 - Goddesses on the Rocks, Joshua Tree, CA
April 18-19 - Red River Reunion Trash Clean Up, Red River Gorge, KY
April 26 - Beginning of Season Party and Pig Roast, Seneca Rocks, WV
Popularity: 11% [?]
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