Quick Sends - 7/3/08

July 3, 2008

Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set new speed record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite

Results of the lead-climbing competition in China

Yosemite Museum at Yosemite National Park is featuring new exhibit dedicated to rock climbing

Bill to ban bisphenol-A (BPA) was introduced to Congress

Nau purchased and re-opend by Horny Toad

Popularity: 2% [?]

Omega Pacific issues inspection notice for Link Cams

June 13, 2008

Omega Pacific recently released a notice instructing owners of their Link Cams to look for a potential defect:

In May 2008, we became aware of situations in which axle nuts were not properly and permanently fixed on the axle assemblies permitting the cams to potentially become disassembled. Upon receiving the units, our Quality Assurance department launched an exhaustive investigation to determine the cause and establish correction of the issue.

Our QA inspectors have determined that the returned units were allowed to progress from one assembly station to the next without this important step having been completed.

It was determined, based on identification by lot numbers, that the cams returned were manufactured prior to the implementation of upgraded quality assurance procedures and employee training sessions which were instituted in May 2007. At that point, new work instructions were written, additional quality inspection steps were introduced and employees were either reassigned or retrained to reduce the likelihood of such lapses in quality from occurring.

Full information, including how to determine if your Link Cam needs to be repaired, can be found at the Omega Pacific web site here.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Quick Sends - 6/11/08

June 11, 2008

Sonnie Trotter repeats Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (E11/5.14c R) in Great Britain

Hot Aches Productions writes about filming Rhapsody

Tommy Caldwell frees Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) on El Cap in 20 hours and 2 minutes

Results from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado

Dosage Vol. 5 world premiere review

Popularity: 10% [?]

Quick Sends - 6/4/08

June 4, 2008

One of my favorite new climbing bloggers, RockClimberGirl, is featured in an interview on FrontRangeBouldering.com.

Chris Sharma climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Spain

Recap of the Telluride Mountainfilm Festival

Steve McClure climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Yorkshire, U.K.

Ueli Steck wins 2008 Eiger Award

The Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant applications are due June 15th

Results of the Dimarock International Climbing competition

Alpinist has an update of the Alaska Range climbing season

Popularity: 12% [?]

Quick Sends - 5/22/08

May 22, 2008

Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong make first free ascent of El Capitan’s Magic Mushroom

Adam Ondra repeats Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura

Nicolas Favresse repeated Greenspit (8b+), a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe

Markus Bock climbs possible new 9a in the German Frankenjura

Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have completed the first ascent of the Bat’s Ears, the highest unclimbed Alaskan peak

The New York Times covers the Fred Hutchinson Climb for Cancer

Review of the Melloblocco bouldering weekend

Popularity: 12% [?]

Quick Sends - 5/12/08

May 12, 2008

The Olympic torch reaches the summit of Mt. Everest

Rocky Mountain National Park may get wilderness protection

Dream in Vertical takes us on a Bishop bouldering trip with tons of pics

Barbara Zangerl makes first female ascent of Pura Vida (8A+/B) in Magic Wood, Switzerland

Daniel Woods completes new 8c in Magic Wood

Check CAMP Tricams for possible problems

Peter Beal’s essay on climbing past 40 on FrontRangeBouldering.com

Popularity: 13% [?]

Quick Sends - 5/7/08

May 7, 2008

Spanish climber Rafael Guillen dies on Dhaulagiri

Adam Ondra sends Unplugged (9a) in Frankenjura, Germany

Daniel Woods sends first ascent of Metamorphosis (8b+/V14) in Switzerland’s Magic Wood

David Lama and Anna Stöhr won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2008

Dr. Topo releases Big in Japan Double Feature to DVD

Interview with Henry Barber from the Southeastern Climbers Coalition

Joe Kinder completes Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah

Rock Climber Girl discusses the fear of falling

Review of the Metolius Master Cam

Popularity: 13% [?]

Quick Sends - 4/22/08

April 22, 2008

Daniel Woods finished third in the first bouldering World Cup of 2008 in Austria.

Steph Davis sends testpiece Concepcion near Moab, Utah.

Dave Graham completes V15 at Fontainebleau, France (via Joost).

Dave Macleod to highlight the 15th Annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, Wyoming.

Everest film by David Breashears to air on PBS uesday, May 13, from 9 to 11 p.m. ET.

PlanetMountain.com reports on ice climbing in Japan.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Red Rock Rendezvous Review

April 9, 2008

Las Vegas June 20030080

The Backcountry Blog has an insightful and partially negative view of the recent Red Rock Rendezvous.

As it turns out, being a pro climber does not necessarily make you a great instructor. It does make you an excellent advertiser though, and it was clearly conveyed what company makes the best equipment.

While the author didn’t appreciate the trad clinic, apparently the rest of the event was a great success.

I’ve been meaning to attend this rendezvous the past few years and have never made it. Did anyone attend this years Red Rock Rendezvous and have similar experiences?

Popularity: 13% [?]

Another climbing gym in Boulder?

April 9, 2008

The ClimbingNarc reports that a new climbing gym is coming to Boulder.

Why is this news? There’s already three good sized gyms in Boulder already. But as I found out in my trip to Boulder a couple weeks ago, everyone you meet there is a climber. I’d love to see actual numbers on what percentage of the population in Boulder actually considers themselves a climber though.

It’s a safe bet that the founders of this new gym did their research and the demand is there. On a personal note, now that I’m moving out there, I welcome more indoor climbing gym opportunities!

To be honest, I’m having a hard time going to my local climbing gym with the prospect of having bigger and better gyms available in the very near future. Ahh, a tough problem to have, right?

Popularity: 13% [?]

Registration for New River Rendezvous getting full

March 27, 2008

I’ve heard reports that the New River Rendezvous registration is starting to get full. This year organizers are limiting the event to the first 700 climbers who register in advance.

The fee is only $25 and from my past experiences at the Rendezvous, it will be money well spent.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Climbing events for April

March 24, 2008

Spring is rapidly approaching so we’re starting to see numerous climbing-related events on the radar. Here is a current list of climbing events for April 2008:

April 4-6 - Spring Fling Quartz Gathering, Quartz Mountain, OK

April 4-6 - Warrior’s Way and New River Mountain Guides Trad Camp, New River Gorge, WV

April 6 - YMCA Climb-Off ‘08, North Canton, OH

April 12 - 8th Annual Crux the Competition, Radford, VA

April 13 - Radical Reels, Boulder, CO

April 16 - Galen and Barbara Rowell Lecture Series [tickets], San Francisco, CA

April 18-19 - ClimbFest Ogden 2008, Ogden, UT

April 19 - Goddesses on the Rocks, Joshua Tree, CA

April 18-19 - Red River Reunion Trash Clean Up, Red River Gorge, KY

April 26 - Beginning of Season Party and Pig Roast, Seneca Rocks, WV

Popularity: 11% [?]

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