From the category archives:

Climbing News

2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition

by Tom Markiewicz on May 15, 2009

The Reel Rock Tour has announced details for this years competition.
I saw last years winners during the 2008 Reel Rock Tour in Boulder where The Sharp End was premiered and they were quite well done.

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New River Rendezvous Climber Festival This Weekend

by Tom Markiewicz on May 12, 2009

The New River Rendezvous is of one of the best climbing events I’ve attended and this year the seventh version of this annual event takes place this weekend from May 14-17. Unfortunately I’ll not be able to attend this year, but apparently the forecast is good and there’s an outstanding lineup of events planned.
The Rendezvous [...]

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Access Fund Updates Site Adding RSS Feeds

by Tom Markiewicz on May 3, 2009

I’m not sure exactly how recently the Access Fund updated their web site, but they now have an RSS feed for their news. This will hopefully help the spread of news, access issues, and events.

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Gunks Cliff Closure

by Tom Markiewicz on April 8, 2009

News on the Gunks from SuperTopo:
In Gardiner, New York, five pieces of land abutting the Mohonk Preserve are now closed. Accordingly, roughly 1700 feet of the Millbrook Ridge Trail has been rerouted off private land. Also, approximately 900 feet of cliff face in the Bayards and the Near Trapps is closed, including today’s closure of [...]

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Ice Climber at Vail Survives Fall Due to Anchor Failure

by Tom Markiewicz on March 30, 2009

A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo)
From the article:
At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now knows was [...]

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Alex Johnson Sends Maze of Death

by Tom Markiewicz on March 20, 2009

Alex Johnson sent Maze of Death (V12) on only five attempts for the second female ascent. The problem is located in the Bardini boulders at Bishop.
(via Bishop Bouldering Blog, Kelly McBride, and TheLowDown)

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RockClimbing.com Under New Management

by Tom Markiewicz on March 19, 2009

Popular rock climbing portal RockClimbing.com is under new management again. Citing economic conditions, they’re reconfiguring ownership and dropping Jay Young as a full-time, salaried publisher (via @theclimbergirl).
Rockclimbing.com, together with its sister sites Dropzone.com and BASEjumper.com, were purchased by NameMedia last year and operated by them since then. Unfortunately, as the economy worsened over the past [...]

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Warming Up for Climbing Competitions

by Tom Markiewicz on March 5, 2009

Sean McColl writes about warming up for competitions. He has some good advice that can be adapted to any climbing warm-up routine.
My 75 minute warm up starts with 5 minutes of cardio. You can do anything, jump up and down, go for a run, jump rope, anything to get your heart going. For [...]

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Quick Sends – 3/2/09

by Tom Markiewicz on March 2, 2009

photo credit: Susanica
Nalle Hukkataival has been sending many hard Hueco boulder problems including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s Full Monty (V12).
ClimbingNarc has a good summary of the sends this season at Hueco.
There appears to be access issues at the sport climbing hotbed of Margalef, Spain.
The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) was repeated by [...]

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Bouldering Competition Formats

by Tom Markiewicz on February 25, 2009

Sean McColl examines the various bouldering competition formats and discusses how he prefers the zone format scoring system.
Another reason why I like the zone is because it rewards smarter climbers rathan than always the strongest. I’ve seen very strong competitors make mistakes during qualifyers and semis and as a result, they did not make [...]

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The HERA Foundation is holding its fourth annual Climb for Life event in the DC Metro area February 27 through March 28. The event raises money for ovarian cancer research and awareness initiatives.
During the event, participants climb for donations at participating climbing gyms (Sportrock and Earth Treks), receive instruction from world-class climbing athletes, and [...]

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Chris Sharma Makes FA of Demencia Senil, a New 9a+ in Spain

by Tom Markiewicz on February 21, 2009

Daila Ojeda reports that Chris Sharma has made the FA of Demencia Senil, 9a+, at The Laboratory, Margalef. Margalef is a climbing area located south of Barcelona, Spain.
The condition for climbing is perfect now! We have been taking advantage of the great weather these days… and today in Margalef Chris did the first ascent [...]

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