More on finger injuries in climbing
January 24, 2005
As a chronic sufferer of finger injuries, I’ve sought out the most effective ways of preventing injury while climbing. While I’ve read in numerous books about stretching the fingers and forearms, not much discussion has gone into the stretching of individual fingers. Most climbing training books advise to stretch the fingers as a group.
From my own personal, non-scientific studies over the past six months or so, I’ve found that stretching each finger individually has demonstrated noticeable gains. By gains I’m referring to faster recovery from aches and pains and lack of new injuries.
My actual routine (in addition to all other warm-up and training for climbing) involves stretching each individual finger on both hands three times a day. Every day. I take each finger, pull it back, and hold for approximately ten seconds. I then do three sets of these three times a day. Most climbers will probably not have to go to this much effort. But for those of us who have been hampered by finger injuries, this type of prevention may just be the ticket.
I’d be interested in hearing about anyone else’s struggles with finger injuries and its prevention. Please send me an email or preferably, comment below.
Popularity: 20% [?]
Hand Injuries in Rock Climbing
January 23, 2005
As a climber who has repeatedly suffered from finger and shoulder injuries, I’m always on the lookout for informative articles that allow me to understand the physiology of the body systems climbers are always pushing to the limits. It’s rare to find sport-specific information on hand and finger injuries. So, I was especially pleased when I stumbled across an article on Hand Injuries in Rock Climbing: Reaching the Right Treatment.
Published in The Physician and Sportsmedicine in May of 1997, doctors Jebson and Steyers take a detailed yet very understandable approach to hand injuries in climbing. Beginning with hand anatomy and the types of grip techniques climbers employ, the authors proceed to cover the full range of hand injuries. Of particular interest are the details on flexor tendon injuries and rupture of the A2 pulley. Judging from my experiences, these tend to be some of the more common climber injuries.
While this is a comprehensive article on the types and causes of hand and finger injuries, it’s disappointing to read only a single paragraph on prevention. Understandably, this was a paper on injuries; but with such a lack of medical information out there for climbing specific injuries, additional details on prevention would be greatly appreciated by the climbing community.
Popularity: 9% [?]
Big Wall Climbing Guide from FISH
January 22, 2005
FISH Products has a great intro to climbing big walls. Filled with attitude, this guide go through the basics from equipment to hooking to sneaky tricks of the trade.
Popularity: 4% [?]
Phoenix BoulderBlast
January 22, 2005
Another upcoming event is the Phoenix BoulderBlast. Occurring this year on April 22-24, the event is billed as the world’s largest outdoor climbing festival and largest bouldering comp in the US.
Formerly known as the Phoenix Bouldering Contest, this year will be the 22nd event and will be held at the Oak Flat Campground outside Superior, Arizona. Despite the specter of the possible destruction of both Oak Flat and Queen Creek by the Resolution Copper Company, the Phoenix BoulderBlast will press on. Fund raising and awareness of the Friends of Queen Creek will be a primary goal of the event. In addition, the competition boasts of cash prizes and over $40,000 in merchandise prizes.
Popularity: 2% [?]
Red Rocks Rendezvous Climbing Festival
January 22, 2005
The 2005 Red Rocks Rendezvous was recently announced by its primary sponsor Mountain Gear. Held in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area just outside Las Vegas, Nevada, is advertising clinics, gear demos, slide shows, and a pancake breakfast. Oh, and world-class climbing in Red Rocks!
I’ve never been to this festival even though they have been holding it for years now. I’m planning on hitting it this year though. I could use a break from the cold temps here in the East.
Popularity: 4% [?]
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