Gear Review: the humangear capCAP
June 19, 2008
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With the recent Nalgene and BPA bottle scare, I decided to start replacing my collection of water bottles. To be honest, I hadn’t looked at bottles for a while. I like the standard lexan Nalgene wide-mouth bottles, so I just kept buying them when needed without even really looking at other options. I also know many climbers are big fans of SIGG and CamelBak.
While looking for new bottles, I was amazed at the numerous ways manufacturers can create complexity and choices for something as straightforward (at least in my mind) as a water bottle.
For my usage, primarily on climbing trips, I much prefer a wide-mouth bottle to the narrow drinking versions. While the smaller lids make drinking easier, I like the ability to add liquid, ice cubes, and drink mixes quickly to the wide-mouth bottles. I’ve always preferred the overall flexibility as well as the easier cleaning aspect of a wide-mouth.
So when I found an accessory cap replacement by humangear called capCAP, I was intrigued. The capCAP is intended to simply replace your current cap on any major wide-mouth bottle with their narrow, easier drinking version.
At first I was a bit skeptical that a replacement cap would make any sense, but after using it non-stop over the past few days I love this product.
The capCAP easily fit on my wide-mouth Nalgene bottle with no issues. The first thing I noticed was the rubberized lid on the small cap. This is what you will always be grabbing to open the bottle for drinking and it gripped well with a nice feel to it. This small, yet important feature will be useful out at the crags when hands get greasy, sweating, and chalky.
The other really noticeable design feature is how the drinking spout is curved ergonomically. No spillage and very easy to drink from.

The capCAP’s 2-in-1 design provides both the small cap as well as still giving you access to a large cap for filling the bottle. I like the fact that you get the easier drinking from the smaller cap without losing the functionality of the large cap.
So what does this all cost? The big question, right? The capCAP retails for $5.95 at stores like REI. The average wide-mouth bottle runs from $6 - $12 so your total cost for a bottle after adding the capCAP would be about $14. Not too bad for what you get, especially if you compare it with a narrow mouth SIGG bottle (a one liter bottle runs about $22).
Pros
- very comfortable
- best of both worlds - small-mouth and wide-mouth
- extremely grippable top lid
- ergonomic drinking spout
- BPA-free and PC-free
- works with all major wide-mouth bottles including Nalgene (wide-mouth, OTG and stainless), CamelBak (all sizes), Cyclone, Guyot stainless, and many others
- the carrying loop feels stronger than the standard ones provided with the original bottle
Cons
- currently only comes in one color choice (I don’t mind one color, but I know many do).
Summary
If you like the flexibility of wide-mouth bottles (or already own a bunch of them), but want to drink out of your bottle easier via a narrower spout, you can’t go wrong with the capCAP. Despite the extra cost on a bottle, the product is definitely worthwhile.
Disclaimer: All Climbing was provided a capCap for this review with no strings attached. We do not write reviews for products with any predetermined outcome.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Omega Pacific issues inspection notice for Link Cams
June 13, 2008

Omega Pacific recently released a notice instructing owners of their Link Cams to look for a potential defect:
In May 2008, we became aware of situations in which axle nuts were not properly and permanently fixed on the axle assemblies permitting the cams to potentially become disassembled. Upon receiving the units, our Quality Assurance department launched an exhaustive investigation to determine the cause and establish correction of the issue.
Our QA inspectors have determined that the returned units were allowed to progress from one assembly station to the next without this important step having been completed.
It was determined, based on identification by lot numbers, that the cams returned were manufactured prior to the implementation of upgraded quality assurance procedures and employee training sessions which were instituted in May 2007. At that point, new work instructions were written, additional quality inspection steps were introduced and employees were either reassigned or retrained to reduce the likelihood of such lapses in quality from occurring.
Full information, including how to determine if your Link Cam needs to be repaired, can be found at the Omega Pacific web site here.
Popularity: 10% [?]
Two Interviews with Jason Kehl
June 12, 2008
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition as well as pimpin’ and crimpin’ have interesting interviews with Jason Kehl on their sites. Check them out.
Popularity: 9% [?]
Climbing Weather site
May 30, 2008
It’s time to double check the weather for weekend climbing and I stumbled on a climbing specific web site for weather that I had never used before: ClimbingWeather.com

Usually I have a few bookmarked pages to the National Weather Service for my local climbing areas. ClimbingWeather.com does this better by showing exactly what I need in an easy to read format.
Additional features include monthly rain and temperature averages, an area map via Google, and a “nice climbing days” tracker. I’d love to see how they measure and track this - the site states The New has had 45 nice climbing days this year.
I love the site, but do have a few suggestions. First, they could add RSS feeds for each area as well as the blog. It would be really useful to open my feed reader with all my other climbing reading and see the upcoming forecast.
A second suggestion (and I know I’m reaching here) would be to create weather widgets for climbing related sites and blogs. I’m not sure what the long-term plan is for ClimbingWeather.com, but weather widgets would go a long way to spreading their reach.
Popularity: 14% [?]
Review of the Black Diamond Icon headlamp
May 22, 2008

SplitterChoss.com posts a nice review of the Black Diamond Icon. Apparently, this headlamp can last for 90 hours on one charge.
This is one thing I wish more climbing blogs did - write good reviews of climbing gear. Unlike books or electronics where you can quickly go to Amazon.com and find many reviews, we really don’t have anything that comprehensive for climbing gear.
Some retailers like Mountain Gear offer reviews, but it’s really hit or miss. So consider this an open challenge to all bloggers (All Climbing included): we need more gear reviews!
Popularity: 18% [?]
More confirmation of Miura VS climbing shoes coming soon
May 19, 2008
At the New River Rendezvous this past weekend, I spoke with a rep from La Sportiva regarding the availability of the new Miura VS climbing shoes I wrote about previously.
He told me the new Miuras should be in retailers within a month as they are currently being shipped to the US.
As soon as I can get my hands on a pair, I’ll have a review posted.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Time to throw away your Nalgene bottles
May 8, 2008

There’s been numerous articles recently written on the problems that have surfaced regarding Nalgene bottles. Since most climbers own one of these, I decided to look into what is actually going on.
I was in the REI in Bailey’s Crossroads, Virginia recently and I didn’t see a single Nalgene bottle on the shelves. A foreboding sign itself. There’s usually an entire row of shelving with the now ubiquitous bottles in all shapes and colors.
Following the move made by Canada’s MEC, REI has now pulled all Nalgene bottles from their shelves. Nalgene has announced that they will stop making bottles out of polycarbonate.
Polycarbonate contains a chemical called bisphenol A (BPA) which has been linked to numerous health problems including breast and prostate cancer, brain damage, endocrine system disruptions, higher levels of testosterone in men and women, recurrent miscarriages, and chromosomal defects in fetuses.
Read more
Popularity: 24% [?]
Outdoor clothing store Nau closes
May 7, 2008

I was introduced to Nau by Andrew Hyde during my trip to Boulder in March. During a brief chat at the TechStars office, Andrew recommended I stop by the Nau store in Boulder before leaving. He praised the quality of their sustainable clothing and fact that the company was founded by former Patagonia employees. So I figured I should check them out.
I did manage to stop by Nau and was very impressed by their clothing. In particular I saw one fleece on the sale rack that had it been in my size I would have bought in a heartbeat. Some of their pants made for climbing or other outdoors activities were quite impressive. I made a mental note to come back and shop when I returned this summer to live in Boulder permanently.
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Popularity: 17% [?]
Gear Review: Revolution Uzi Crash Pad
May 3, 2008
I’m a firm believer that a serious boulderer needs three types of crash pads. First, there’s the all around workhorse crash pad. At a standard size of about 40″ by 50″ feet, this pad will take care of the vast majority of your bouldering needs. Most crash pad models fall into this category and you likely already own at least one.
The next category comprises the extra large pads. Meant for highballs, maximum coverage, or frequent solo bouldering adventures, these monsters usually measure 50″ by 60″ but often times can get much larger. The Revolution 12-Gauge is an excellent example of this type of crash pad.
Read more
Popularity: 18% [?]
Want to be sponsored?
April 23, 2008

Want to be sponsored by an outdoor equipment manufacturer? GoPro is accepting sponsorship applications for 2008.
GoPro outfits top amateur athletes with its wearable digital video cameras.
They appear to be focused on racing sports, but why not climbing? I could see attaching a small camera to a helmet while climbing… I doubt the footage would be compelling though.
Popularity: 12% [?]
La Sportiva’s new Miura VS coming soon
April 22, 2008

I cannot wait to get my hands on a pair of the new La Sportiva Miura VS velcro shoes.
The lace-up Miura’s have been my shoe of choice for the past several years, so I’m eager to see how a velcro version stacks up.
I’m encouraged by the product description:
Velcro lace up version of the Miura model, enriched with a number of innovative technical solutions. It keeps the lace up model’s exceptional characteristics, adding new high-tech elements as well as a quick fit thanks to three velcros. The upper is made with a tubular construction. Arch support with P3 technology which ensures the support of the shape by avoiding natural wear and tear of the materials and guaranteeing maximum performance through time.
Has anyone seen these in the wild yet? If you’ve tried them, please leave a comment with feedback.
UPDATE: Schmoubouldering has some negative initial opinions on them and Mountain Gear apparently has them in stock.
Popularity: 13% [?]
Moving to Colorado
February 28, 2008
I wrote about this on my personal blog this morning, but it’s definitely appropriate to discuss here on All Climbing. This summer my wife and I will be moving to the Boulder area of Colorado. I say Boulder “area” because we’re not exactly sure where we’ll end up finding real estate we like, but the goal is to be within a 30 minute drive of Boulder for primarily business reasons (also discussed in the post on my other blog).
I’ll be visiting Boulder and Denver next week to start getting a better feel for the different areas to live and hopefully get some climbing in (Saturday looks to be sunny and low 60’s!)
I expect to be living there by early summer, but it will all depend on selling our house here and finding a new place to live out there.
I look forward to continuing my blogging on climbing with even more reporting on cool happenings as I’ll be much more near a climbing epicenter.
Popularity: 21% [?]
