Gear Review: the humangear capCAP

June 19, 2008


With the recent Nalgene and BPA bottle scare, I decided to start replacing my collection of water bottles. To be honest, I hadn’t looked at bottles for a while. I like the standard lexan Nalgene wide-mouth bottles, so I just kept buying them when needed without even really looking at other options. I also know many climbers are big fans of SIGG and CamelBak.

While looking for new bottles, I was amazed at the numerous ways manufacturers can create complexity and choices for something as straightforward (at least in my mind) as a water bottle.

For my usage, primarily on climbing trips, I much prefer a wide-mouth bottle to the narrow drinking versions. While the smaller lids make drinking easier, I like the ability to add liquid, ice cubes, and drink mixes quickly to the wide-mouth bottles. I’ve always preferred the overall flexibility as well as the easier cleaning aspect of a wide-mouth.

So when I found an accessory cap replacement by humangear called capCAP, I was intrigued. The capCAP is intended to simply replace your current cap on any major wide-mouth bottle with their narrow, easier drinking version.

At first I was a bit skeptical that a replacement cap would make any sense, but after using it non-stop over the past few days I love this product.

The capCAP easily fit on my wide-mouth Nalgene bottle with no issues. The first thing I noticed was the rubberized lid on the small cap. This is what you will always be grabbing to open the bottle for drinking and it gripped well with a nice feel to it. This small, yet important feature will be useful out at the crags when hands get greasy, sweating, and chalky.

The other really noticeable design feature is how the drinking spout is curved ergonomically. No spillage and very easy to drink from.

The capCAP’s 2-in-1 design provides both the small cap as well as still giving you access to a large cap for filling the bottle. I like the fact that you get the easier drinking from the smaller cap without losing the functionality of the large cap.

So what does this all cost? The big question, right? The capCAP retails for $5.95 at stores like REI. The average wide-mouth bottle runs from $6 - $12 so your total cost for a bottle after adding the capCAP would be about $14. Not too bad for what you get, especially if you compare it with a narrow mouth SIGG bottle (a one liter bottle runs about $22).

Pros

  • very comfortable
  • best of both worlds - small-mouth and wide-mouth
  • extremely grippable top lid
  • ergonomic drinking spout
  • BPA-free and PC-free
  • works with all major wide-mouth bottles including Nalgene (wide-mouth, OTG and stainless), CamelBak (all sizes), Cyclone, Guyot stainless, and many others
  • the carrying loop feels stronger than the standard ones provided with the original bottle

Cons

  • currently only comes in one color choice (I don’t mind one color, but I know many do).

Summary

If you like the flexibility of wide-mouth bottles (or already own a bunch of them), but want to drink out of your bottle easier via a narrower spout, you can’t go wrong with the capCAP. Despite the extra cost on a bottle, the product is definitely worthwhile.

Disclaimer: All Climbing was provided a capCap for this review with no strings attached. We do not write reviews for products with any predetermined outcome.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Omega Pacific issues inspection notice for Link Cams

June 13, 2008

Omega Pacific recently released a notice instructing owners of their Link Cams to look for a potential defect:

In May 2008, we became aware of situations in which axle nuts were not properly and permanently fixed on the axle assemblies permitting the cams to potentially become disassembled. Upon receiving the units, our Quality Assurance department launched an exhaustive investigation to determine the cause and establish correction of the issue.

Our QA inspectors have determined that the returned units were allowed to progress from one assembly station to the next without this important step having been completed.

It was determined, based on identification by lot numbers, that the cams returned were manufactured prior to the implementation of upgraded quality assurance procedures and employee training sessions which were instituted in May 2007. At that point, new work instructions were written, additional quality inspection steps were introduced and employees were either reassigned or retrained to reduce the likelihood of such lapses in quality from occurring.

Full information, including how to determine if your Link Cam needs to be repaired, can be found at the Omega Pacific web site here.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Review of the Black Diamond Icon headlamp

May 22, 2008

SplitterChoss.com posts a nice review of the Black Diamond Icon. Apparently, this headlamp can last for 90 hours on one charge.

This is one thing I wish more climbing blogs did - write good reviews of climbing gear. Unlike books or electronics where you can quickly go to Amazon.com and find many reviews, we really don’t have anything that comprehensive for climbing gear.

Some retailers like Mountain Gear offer reviews, but it’s really hit or miss. So consider this an open challenge to all bloggers (All Climbing included): we need more gear reviews!

Popularity: 18% [?]

More confirmation of Miura VS climbing shoes coming soon

May 19, 2008

At the New River Rendezvous this past weekend, I spoke with a rep from La Sportiva regarding the availability of the new Miura VS climbing shoes I wrote about previously.

He told me the new Miuras should be in retailers within a month as they are currently being shipped to the US.

As soon as I can get my hands on a pair, I’ll have a review posted.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Gear Review: Revolution Uzi Crash Pad

May 3, 2008

I’m a firm believer that a serious boulderer needs three types of crash pads. First, there’s the all around workhorse crash pad. At a standard size of about 40″ by 50″ feet, this pad will take care of the vast majority of your bouldering needs. Most crash pad models fall into this category and you likely already own at least one.

The next category comprises the extra large pads. Meant for highballs, maximum coverage, or frequent solo bouldering adventures, these monsters usually measure 50″ by 60″ but often times can get much larger. The Revolution 12-Gauge is an excellent example of this type of crash pad.
Read more

Popularity: 18% [?]

La Sportiva’s new Miura VS coming soon

April 22, 2008

I cannot wait to get my hands on a pair of the new La Sportiva Miura VS velcro shoes.

The lace-up Miura’s have been my shoe of choice for the past several years, so I’m eager to see how a velcro version stacks up.

I’m encouraged by the product description:

Velcro lace up version of the Miura model, enriched with a number of innovative technical solutions. It keeps the lace up model’s exceptional characteristics, adding new high-tech elements as well as a quick fit thanks to three velcros. The upper is made with a tubular construction. Arch support with P3 technology which ensures the support of the shape by avoiding natural wear and tear of the materials and guaranteeing maximum performance through time.

Has anyone seen these in the wild yet? If you’ve tried them, please leave a comment with feedback.

UPDATE: Schmoubouldering has some negative initial opinions on them and Mountain Gear apparently has them in stock.

Popularity: 13% [?]

DailyClimber offers climbing gear deals

January 13, 2008

I’ve been following a relatively new site called DailyClimber that offers a single deal per day on a climbing related product. Similar to Backcountry.com’s Steep and Cheap, DailyClimber focuses more on climbing specific items (though there are often more general outdoor products offered). Each item is only offered for one day or until it’s sold out.

Unfortunately, while Steep and Cheap draws from a large pool of vendors, so far DailyClimber has been offering a small selection of manufacturers. As climbers are always looking for good deals on climbing gear, let’s hope this improves and they can secure more arrangements for getting overstocks and the like.

Recent deals have included a Maxim 10.5mm dry treated rope, a Trango Pyramid belay device, and a Stubai Hornet ice tool.

I haven’t seen any products on the site I actually need yet, so I can’t offer feedback on the ordering process or overall integrity of the business. Has anyone made a purchase from DailyClimber?

Popularity: 17% [?]

Petzl Charlet Sarken Crampon Recall

October 12, 2007

Petzl has posted a recall for all its Petzl Charlet Sarken crampons.

Recent customer experience has shown that the front points of SARKEN crampons are susceptible to premature wearout following heavy use. This means cracking of the metal forefoot near the front point(s), followed by possible breakage if usage continues.

Petzl has stopped sales and production of these crampons and is recalling all SARKEN crampon models because we feel that the potential lifetime of the crampons should be longer than user experience has demonstrated.

If you own these crampons, Petzl has instructions on their website.

Popularity: 13% [?]

Moon Fingerboard

October 3, 2007

I just read the hangboard review in the new issue of Climbing and the Moon Fingerboard has really caught my eye. From Moon:

As with all Moon products our design philosophy is definately less is more and the Moon fingerboard is no exception. Do not be conned into buying a fancy fingerboard at a high price. The Moon fingerboard is all you need. It contains all the differents types of holds you need to train on to get stronger for all types of climbing from half joint finger edges through to incut fingerjugs, 2 finger pockets through to 4 finger pockets and 2 different types of slopers. It’s a compact, simple design which if you used correctly will prove highly effective and will soon become your best friend.

I’m looking to add another hangboard to my tiny Metolius Slim Gym and the Moon board looks like it would complement my Metolius perfectly. Anyone have opinions on hangboards/fingerboards?

Popularity: 41% [?]

Prana may be on the chopping block by new owner Liz Claiborne

August 13, 2007

The Wall Street Journal writes that Liz Claiborne, the relatively new owner of the climber favorite Prana, is on a list of companies and brands they’re considering for sale or discontinuation.

The 16 brands that Claiborne will try to sell or license out or possibly discontinue are Sigrid Olsen, Prana, Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman, Mac & Jac, Kensie, Intuitions, C&C California, Enyce, Laundry, Tint, Stamp10, First Issue, Emma James, Tapemeasure and J.H. Collectibles.

I can’t say this doesn’t surprise me - I wasn’t exactly thrilled when I heard the news the were sold the first time. While climbers like myself are intensely loyal to Prana clothing, there was no evidence Prana was going to be a hit in the mainstream a la North Face. I give credit for Prana’s owners on making a nice exit, but I plan on stocking up on some of my favorite Prana shorts just in case…

Let’s hope Prana gets sold to a climber friendly owner.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Black Diamond Speed Buckle Harnesses Recalled

August 17, 2006

Black Diamond Speed Buckle Harnesses

I saw this come through this morning and thought everyone should read this statement from Black Diamond recalling their Speed Buckle Harness.
Read more

Popularity: 14% [?]

Trango Cam Recall

June 20, 2006

Trango has announced a recall on their #1 MaxCam. Details are in the PDF below:

http://www.trango.com/pdfs/MCrecall.pdf

Popularity: 3% [?]

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