Gear Review: the humangear capCAP
June 19, 2008
With the recent Nalgene and BPA bottle scare, I decided to start replacing my collection of water bottles. To be honest, I hadn’t looked at bottles for a while. I like the standard lexan Nalgene wide-mouth bottles, so I just kept buying them when needed without even really looking at other options. I also know many climbers are big fans of SIGG and CamelBak.
While looking for new bottles, I was amazed at the numerous ways manufacturers can create complexity and choices for something as straightforward (at least in my mind) as a water bottle.
For my usage, primarily on climbing trips, I much prefer a wide-mouth bottle to the narrow drinking versions. While the smaller lids make drinking easier, I like the ability to add liquid, ice cubes, and drink mixes quickly to the wide-mouth bottles. I’ve always preferred the overall flexibility as well as the easier cleaning aspect of a wide-mouth.
So when I found an accessory cap replacement by humangear called capCAP, I was intrigued. The capCAP is intended to simply replace your current cap on any major wide-mouth bottle with their narrow, easier drinking version.
At first I was a bit skeptical that a replacement cap would make any sense, but after using it non-stop over the past few days I love this product.
The capCAP easily fit on my wide-mouth Nalgene bottle with no issues. The first thing I noticed was the rubberized lid on the small cap. This is what you will always be grabbing to open the bottle for drinking and it gripped well with a nice feel to it. This small, yet important feature will be useful out at the crags when hands get greasy, sweating, and chalky.
The other really noticeable design feature is how the drinking spout is curved ergonomically. No spillage and very easy to drink from.
The capCAP’s 2-in-1 design provides both the small cap as well as still giving you access to a large cap for filling the bottle. I like the fact that you get the easier drinking from the smaller cap without losing the functionality of the large cap.
So what does this all cost? The big question, right? The capCAP retails for $5.95 at stores like REI. The average wide-mouth bottle runs from $6 - $12 so your total cost for a bottle after adding the capCAP would be about $14. Not too bad for what you get, especially if you compare it with a narrow mouth SIGG bottle (a one liter bottle runs about $22).
Pros
- very comfortable
- best of both worlds - small-mouth and wide-mouth
- extremely grippable top lid
- ergonomic drinking spout
- BPA-free and PC-free
- works with all major wide-mouth bottles including Nalgene (wide-mouth, OTG and stainless), CamelBak (all sizes), Cyclone, Guyot stainless, and many others
- the carrying loop feels stronger than the standard ones provided with the original bottle
Cons
- currently only comes in one color choice (I don’t mind one color, but I know many do).
Summary
If you like the flexibility of wide-mouth bottles (or already own a bunch of them), but want to drink out of your bottle easier via a narrower spout, you can’t go wrong with the capCAP. Despite the extra cost on a bottle, the product is definitely worthwhile.
Disclaimer: All Climbing was provided a capCap for this review with no strings attached. We do not write reviews for products with any predetermined outcome.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Gear Review: Revolution Uzi Crash Pad
May 3, 2008
I’m a firm believer that a serious boulderer needs three types of crash pads. First, there’s the all around workhorse crash pad. At a standard size of about 40″ by 50″ feet, this pad will take care of the vast majority of your bouldering needs. Most crash pad models fall into this category and you likely already own at least one.
The next category comprises the extra large pads. Meant for highballs, maximum coverage, or frequent solo bouldering adventures, these monsters usually measure 50″ by 60″ but often times can get much larger. The Revolution 12-Gauge is an excellent example of this type of crash pad.
Read more
Popularity: 18% [?]
Review of the climbing film Spray
February 13, 2008
From the diary of a [newbie] rock climber, we get a great review of the premier of Spray:
one thing that will strike you about this movie is the emphasized pairing of music with climbing problems. at times you feel like you are watching segmented 4 minute music videos. the pairings work mostly. there were times however when i wished i could just hear the ocean and nothing else. someone should compile a cd of the movie’s tracks though. the songs would make for a great climbing road trip album.
my one criticism of the film is that i wish it had taken more risks with its story lines. i also wanted lindner and especially kinder to be complex characters. at one point lindner starts talking about how his father broke his back trad climbing and how that influenced chris’s decision to focus on sport climbing. i was intrigued by the possibility of this narrative but was a bit disappointed by its cursory treatment. similarly, i wish joe had been a bit more vulnerable and raw in his conversations. he gets close to this point when talking about how chris sharma inspired him by climbing surf safari (5.14) at age 14 but the exposure is brief. i guess i was hoping for a little less spray.
I haven’t seen the film yet. Anyone else have thoughts on Spray?
Popularity: 17% [?]
DailyClimber offers climbing gear deals
January 13, 2008
I’ve been following a relatively new site called DailyClimber that offers a single deal per day on a climbing related product. Similar to Backcountry.com’s Steep and Cheap, DailyClimber focuses more on climbing specific items (though there are often more general outdoor products offered). Each item is only offered for one day or until it’s sold out.
Unfortunately, while Steep and Cheap draws from a large pool of vendors, so far DailyClimber has been offering a small selection of manufacturers. As climbers are always looking for good deals on climbing gear, let’s hope this improves and they can secure more arrangements for getting overstocks and the like.
Recent deals have included a Maxim 10.5mm dry treated rope, a Trango Pyramid belay device, and a Stubai Hornet ice tool.
I haven’t seen any products on the site I actually need yet, so I can’t offer feedback on the ordering process or overall integrity of the business. Has anyone made a purchase from DailyClimber?
Popularity: 17% [?]
Superclip review
June 18, 2006
Wired Nut has a review of a new stick clip tool, the RockTools Superclip. Looks like it may be a better alternative than the Trango Squid.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Princeton Tec Aurora Headlamp Review
March 5, 2005
Backpacking Light has a review of the Princeton Tec Aurora headlamp. As I learned the hard way at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia many years ago, always keep a headlamp in your pack…
Popularity: 4% [?]
But can they make you fly?
February 24, 2005
Originally posted on Epinions several years ago (2000), I thought I would re-post my review of the La Sportiva Mythos climbing shoes as the original review became obscured in Epinions categories.
La Sportiva Mythos Climbing Shoes
Pros:
Comfortable, multi-purpose, sensitive
Cons:
Laces are hard to replace
Full Review:
The multi-purpose La Sportiva Mythos is by far the best rock shoe I have ever worn (read on for disclaimer at end). Rock climbing for over ten years now, I have been to all types of crags. Not laying claim to belonging to either sport climbing or trad climbing, I like to try it all. This can be both a blessing as well as a curse. Though the variety of choice is great, being a climber willing to tackle any route takes its toll when hauling large amounts of gear to the crag. That said, I’m much happier when one piece of gear performs multiple functions. The Mythos is that Holy Grail!
I have owed my Mythos since 1995. Two other pairs of shoes add to my gear: Five Ten Summits and a pair of La Sportiva Cobras. The Mythos remain my favorite all-around choice especially for comfort. I have worn them many times on multi-pitch routes with no major foot pain. They have been resoled twice and are about ready for another. I have seen no performance decline though over the past five years. There have only been two minor problems with my shoes. First, the shoelaces broke and I had to re-lace (very difficult). Second, one of the small leather straps that hold the laces in place broke. Both of these were very minor problems that left no major performance issues.
The Mythos has a few more advantages. Since there is no lining or last in the shoe, it is extremely flexible. Features in the rock will actually contour to you feet and you will feel subtle nuances in the rock. This makes for excellent smearing. An added benefit though exists in the realm of sport climbing. You will actually grab some of those holds with your feet. The Mythos is that supple. All this flexibility would lead one to believe that these shoes perform poorly when edging. This is actually not the case. The Mythos is just at home cranking down on sharp edges as they are dancing up the slabs.
A general disclaimer to this review that should be applied to all rock shoes: they can be the best shoes in the world, but it doesn’t matter if they don’t fit your feet well. As always, try them on with many other models. If the Mythos fits, you will definitely ignore that high-end price tag.
UPDATE: Ok, now it’s 2005 and I’ve added additional shoes since then: Boreal Spirit, Mad Rock Flash, and La Sportiva Miura. The Mad Rocks are my every day “gym” shoe, but the Sportiva Miura’s have bested the Mythos as the best shoes I’ve worn. Watch for an upcoming review.
Popularity: 3% [?]
Rock Chalk review
February 15, 2005
As an old school, block gymnastic chalk user, I’ve tried and then given away every other type of chalk to be released over the years. Everything other than the block chalk feels greasy to me. I pretty much assumed attempts at chalk innovation has stopped, but apparently a company called Terra Firma has some interesting products.
RockClimbing.com has a recent review of Terra Firma’s product, Rock Chalk:
Rock Chalk contains an all-natural pigment that is made of - are you ready for this? Rocks. Its actual substance is a guarded secret, but Shackelford assures me that the stuff comes straight out of the ground. I know that this doesn’t determine whether or not it will actually stain, but hey, white chalk stains. I can name you several crags that have chalk marks aplenty to bewilder archaeologists ten thousand years from now.
In addition, a block Rock Chalk version is also on the way. That I may give a shot. But if everyone starts using colored chalk, I may have to learn some route-finding skills!
Popularity: 15% [?]
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