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From the category archives:

Mountaineering

Everest climber argues Sherpas undervalued

by Tom Markiewicz on April 21, 2005

An Everest climber argues that Sherpas are undervalued for the work they perform and how they put their lives on the line. Though scaling Everest has become a lucrative adventure sport, Apa and other Sherpas, many of whom use their ethnic group as a last name, say they are not getting their fair share of [...]

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First American Expedition to Borkoldoy Mountains

by Tom Markiewicz on April 19, 2005

MountainZone.com reports that the Harvard Mountaineering Club is celebrating its 80th Anniversary by undertaking an expedition to the Borkoldoy Mountains in Kyrgyzstan.

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Not sure how this site will turn out, but MSN Travel will be covering every aspect of Ed Viesturs‘ attempt on Annapurna without oxygen. Viesturs’ 20 year quest to be the first American to summit all 14 8,000 meter peaks without oxygen will be complete with success on Annapurna.

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Climbing Mt. Rainier

by Tom Markiewicz on April 13, 2005

The Los Angeles Times has an article about two Rainier Mountaineering guides, Chris Bamer and Rob Montague, and their attempt on the Ptarmigan Ridge route. The article also has some great background info on climbing Mt. Rainier. For many American mountaineers, the road to the toughest climbs in the world goes through Mt. Rainier, considered [...]

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2 dead after climbing Mt. Pumori in Nepal

by Tom Markiewicz on March 31, 2005

A Nepali guide and a Panamanian climber died after returning from Mount Pumori in Nepal. Both of them successfully climbed Mt. Pumori on March 25, but while returning, they climbed 100 meters down and unfortunately slipped and fell down in mountain trench of 500 meter depth which led them to the death. These two climbers [...]

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The 10 essentials for emergency wilderness survival

by Tom Markiewicz on March 28, 2005

The bible of climbing and mountaineering instructional literature is Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills published by The Mountaineers. I’ve read and studied that book cover to cover numerous times and now the experts from The Mountaineers have put out some guidelines for wilderness survival. The Seattle Post-Intelligencer has a useful article on the ten [...]

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The legend of sweet death

by Tom Markiewicz on March 28, 2005

MountEverest.net has an article on phenomena of “sweet death”. After last year’s Everest season, climbers trickled in to ExWeb’s office bringing with them tales of summits but also some alarming news. All over the mountain, climbers had been falling asleep. All had been shook awake by Sherpas; most weren’t aware how close to death they’d [...]

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Avalanche Kills Climber at Quandary Peak

by Tom Markiewicz on March 28, 2005

MountainZone.com reports that two climbers were hit by an avalanche at Quandary Peak in Colorado’s Tenmile Range. One of the climbers emerged with only minor injuries while the other died.

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Aron Ralston Completes Winter Colorado 14′ers

by Tom Markiewicz on March 14, 2005

A variety of news sources (Aspen Times, Climbing,

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Teaching the Sherpas

by Tom Markiewicz on March 9, 2005

I never thoughts about this before, but do Sherpas get any formal mountaineering training? Apparently, most of them do not. California State University, Sacramento professor Kevin Tatsugawa is trying to change that situation. He’s currently working to transform Nepali guides and porters into certified professionals through the Khumbu Climbing School in the Nepali village of [...]

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High-altitude cerebral edema

by Tom Markiewicz on February 26, 2005

Men’s Health has a piece on high-altitude cerebral edema. While the article is a novice’s account of climbing the Mexican volcano Pico de Orizaba, it provides great insight into how even the most physically trained people can fall victim. High-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) can occur unpredictably at altitudes above 14,000 feet. Fluid fills the cavity [...]

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Climber missing on Mount Huntington

by Tom Markiewicz on February 18, 2005

KTUU in Anchorage, Alaska reports that a climber is missing on 12,240-foot Mount Huntington. Apparently the 26-year-old Johnny Soderstrom, a mountaineering instructor, disappeared on the approach. His climbing partner, Joe Reichert, lost him as he skied behind Soderstrom. Mount Huntington, though shorter than Denali, is considered more difficult.

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