Training

Medical Professionals Treating Climbing Injuries

by Tom Markiewicz on November 3, 2009

The most sustained commenting I see on posts here are those related to climbing injuries. There’s also been increased activity on my post from February where I described my A2 pulley injury and the steps I began to recover. Many of the comments from other climbers related to their injury, how they’ve been treating it, […]

Will Gadd on Training for Climbing

by Tom Markiewicz on October 9, 2009

Will Gadd on general fitness and weight training versus climbing specific training: I’m going to get real blunt here: If you want to be a better climber then damn well go climbing. Especially a better rock climber. I would bet any amount of money that if a person spent, say, 20 hours a week training […]

How to Make a Tape Glove

by Tom Markiewicz on September 3, 2009

Chris Weidner describes in detail how to make a tape glove for crack climbing. Whether learning how to jam cracks or cruising 5.13 testpieces, tape gloves will prevent the back of your hands from turning into hamburger. Not only will this help you avoid needless suffering, it will allow you to climb exponentially more than […]

Silent Feet, How to Have Better Climbing Footwork

by Tom Markiewicz on August 18, 2009

Silent feet was one the best exercises I learned for better technique when I started climbing. This Tech Tip from Climbing goes into details on how to have better footwork while climbing. As your main points of weighted contact, your feet matter. Placing them silently forces you to be deliberate and aware with your choice, […]

What it Takes to Climb 5.12

by Tom Markiewicz on August 12, 2009

Gregory Thaczuk writes about what it takes to climb 5.12. Sure I went climbing regularly but I wasnâ??t really trying. I took the easy way out. I toproped whenever someone else was willing to lead. I climbed the same routes regularly. If I was leading and my knees where at a bolt I would take […]

Treatment of Climbing Injuries Increases

by Tom Markiewicz on July 27, 2009

ClimbingNarc points out a fascinating study showing that the treatment of climbing injuries has increased 63% from 1990 to 2007.

120 Moves of Climbing

by Tom Markiewicz on July 15, 2009

I’ve started reading the book One Move Too Many as it was recommended to me by several different climbers. I’ll be posting my full thoughts when I’ve finished the book, but I can already tell you that this is a must have for any climber, especially those dealing with specific injuries. One idea from the […]

Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips

by Tom Markiewicz on June 24, 2009

Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips. Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but there was a day when there was only trad. Trad climbing may be analogous […]

Climbing Magazine has a detailed bouldering tech tip on how to top out on a boulder problem (obviously for those slopey, nasty ones).

Dave MacLeod’s Climbing and Training Tips Series

by Tom Markiewicz on June 3, 2009

Dave MacLeod is writing a series of introductory articles for the Mountaineering Council of Scotlandâ??s magazine and site. You can find the first three parts here and the fourth is due this August. The articles are PDFs and contain some great tips for climbing and training from the Scottish hardman.

As climbers, we suffer from numerous injuries. One of the more common climber injuries is medial epicondylitis or golfers elbow. Essentially this is pain on the inside of your elbow and it originates from overuse of the flexor muscles. All our gripping without exercising the opposing muscle groups is usually the culprit for climbers. As […]

Great Deal on Athletic Tape for Climbing

by Tom Markiewicz on March 16, 2009

I’m always going through a lot of tape for my fingers, but buying it at REI or other retail stores is getting ridiculously expensive. I did manage to find a great deal on Amazon a few days ago, but I was almost skeptical at the low price per roll. My order just showed up and […]