From the category archives:
If you’re new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips.
Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but [...]
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Climbing Magazine has a detailed bouldering tech tip on how to top out on a boulder problem (obviously for those slopey, nasty ones).
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Dave MacLeod is writing a series of introductory articles for the Mountaineering Council of Scotland’s magazine and site.
You can find the first three parts here and the fourth is due this August. The articles are PDFs and contain some great tips for climbing and training from the Scottish hardman.
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As climbers, we suffer from numerous injuries. One of the more common climber injuries is medial epicondylitis or golfers elbow. Essentially this is pain on the inside of your elbow and it originates from overuse of the flexor muscles. All our gripping without exercising the opposing muscle groups is usually the culprit for climbers.
As I [...]
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I’m always going through a lot of tape for my fingers, but buying it at REI or other retail stores is getting ridiculously expensive. I did manage to find a great deal on Amazon a few days ago, but I was almost skeptical at the low price per roll. My order just showed up and [...]
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Sean McColl writes about warming up for competitions. He has some good advice that can be adapted to any climbing warm-up routine.
My 75 minute warm up starts with 5 minutes of cardio. You can do anything, jump up and down, go for a run, jump rope, anything to get your heart going. For [...]
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Gabor Szekely discusses something we all run into at some point: an unexplained slump in climbing performance.
Every year, as my climbing schedule is pretty demanding, I go through an annual slump. For those of you that don’t know, a slump is a period of time (for me usually lasting a month or two), when my [...]
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As climbers, we’re always getting injures - that’s just part of the game. Hopefully your injuries are minor; but when an injury makes you stop climbing for an extended period of time, another outlet is needed for all that obsession.
ClimbingNarc has an injury and recently asked on Twitter for some suggestions on non-climbing activities for [...]
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I’ve been struggling with some climbing injuries recently and finally decided to visit a sports medicine doctor highly recommended by a friend. My issues were a recurring finger injury at the base of my right ring finger and pain in my elbows and thumbs. He rather quickly diagnosed the elbows/thumbs as flexor tendinitis and set [...]
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The American Alpine Institute points out a series of videos by Canadian climbing guide Mike Barter on the pre-equalization on anchors:
There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully equalized. [...]
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Over the years, I think I’ve read almost every book on training for climbing. Always looking for that missing element to my training plans or that hidden technique I never knew existed.
Obviously, there never has been a magic bullet, though many books would have you believe so (although I do recommend Training for Climbing). As [...]
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The prusik hitch may be pretty basic for many readers, but there are certain essential knots that every climber should know.
The American Alpine Institute has posted a great video illustrating the prusik knot.
Alpinists keep a variety of technical tools in their back-pockets. One of the most important tools is the prusik hitch. The prusik hitch [...]
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