From the category archives:
The most sustained commenting I see on posts here are those related to climbing injuries. There’s also been increased activity on my post from February where I described my A2 pulley injury and the steps I began to recover. Many of the comments from other climbers related to their injury, how they’ve been treating it, [...]
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ClimbingNarc points out a fascinating study showing that the treatment of climbing injuries has increased 63% from 1990 to 2007.
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As climbers, we suffer from numerous injuries. One of the more common climber injuries is medial epicondylitis or golfers elbow. Essentially this is pain on the inside of your elbow and it originates from overuse of the flexor muscles. All our gripping without exercising the opposing muscle groups is usually the culprit for climbers. As [...]
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I’m always going through a lot of tape for my fingers, but buying it at REI or other retail stores is getting ridiculously expensive. I did manage to find a great deal on Amazon a few days ago, but I was almost skeptical at the low price per roll. My order just showed up and [...]
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As climbers, we’re always getting injures – that’s just part of the game. Hopefully your injuries are minor; but when an injury makes you stop climbing for an extended period of time, another outlet is needed for all that obsession. ClimbingNarc has an injury and recently asked on Twitter for some suggestions on non-climbing activities [...]
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I’ve been struggling with some climbing injuries recently and finally decided to visit a sports medicine doctor highly recommended by a friend. My issues were a recurring finger injury at the base of my right ring finger and pain in my elbows and thumbs. He rather quickly diagnosed the elbows/thumbs as flexor tendinitis and set [...]
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Over the years, I think I’ve read almost every book on training for climbing. Always looking for that missing element to my training plans or that hidden technique I never knew existed. Obviously, there never has been a magic bullet, though many books would have you believe so (although I do recommend Training for Climbing). [...]
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I stumbled across a provocative set of articles discussing the treatment of climbing injuries from an Eastern medical perspective (primarily using acupuncture). From Acupuncture Today, here are the links to these articles: Treating Common Wrist and Finger Injuries and Integrating Medical Philosophies, Part One Treating Common Wrist and Finger Injuries and Integrating Medical Philosophies, Part [...]
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I’ve been missing in action for the past month or so primarily due to work demands. I also unfortunately injured my thumb bouldering and it still hasn’t quite healed yet. So, having not really been able to climb for over a month now has been driving me nuts. The worst part is that I missed [...]
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The forearm pump. Is there a climber who is not familiar with these awful words? Every climber has their own methods of attempting to reduce the lactic acid burn and pumped forearms. The 8a.nu site has an article putting a little science behind the madness.
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Judging from the number of hits I’m seeing on my previous finger injury posts, it looks like this is a popular topic. Unfortunately, this likely mirrors how common finger injuries are with climbers. I recently found a site dedicated just to climbing injuries of the shoulders, elbows, and fingers called ClimbingInjuries.com. An informative site, what’s [...]
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As a chronic sufferer of finger injuries, I’ve sought out the most effective ways of preventing injury while climbing. While I’ve read in numerous books about stretching the fingers and forearms, not much discussion has gone into the stretching of individual fingers. Most climbing training books advise to stretch the fingers as a group. From [...]
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