From the category archives:

Technique

Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips

by Tom Markiewicz on June 24, 2009

If you’re new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!Rick from Cremnomaniac has complied a nice list of trad climbing techniques, tricks, and tips.
Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but [...]

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Climbing Magazine has a detailed bouldering tech tip on how to top out on a boulder problem (obviously for those slopey, nasty ones).

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Pre-Equalized Anchors and the American Death Triangle

by Tom Markiewicz on January 22, 2009

The American Alpine Institute points out a series of videos by Canadian climbing guide Mike Barter on the pre-equalization on anchors:
There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully equalized. [...]

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How to make a prusik knot

by Tom Markiewicz on October 8, 2008

The prusik hitch may be pretty basic for many readers, but there are certain essential knots that every climber should know.
The American Alpine Institute has posted a great video illustrating the prusik knot.
Alpinists keep a variety of technical tools in their back-pockets. One of the most important tools is the prusik hitch. The prusik hitch [...]

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Crack climbing technique

by Tom Markiewicz on December 7, 2007

You can never have too much insight from great climbers on their technique. Steph Davis has an article on her blog, High Places, discussing her techniques for climbing cracks (via splitterchoss.com).
The key to pure crack climbing, as with every type of climbing, is the feet. I like to start from the basics, which with cracks, [...]

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Climbing tech tips

by Tom Markiewicz on May 19, 2006

Climbing Magazine has all their tech tips nicely listed on their site now.

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Carabiner brake rappel

by Tom Markiewicz on April 22, 2005

Chockstone has a pictorial article on the carabiner brake rappel. The also include an alternative method.

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Rope knots instruction, comparisons, and ratings

by Tom Markiewicz on January 31, 2005

Dave Root has a comprehensive listing of the most useful rope knots for the average person to know on his web site. Especially interesting is an included chart comparing knot strength ratings.

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Big Wall Climbing Guide from FISH

by Tom Markiewicz on January 22, 2005

FISH Products has a great intro to climbing big walls. Filled with attitude, this guide go through the basics from equipment to hooking to sneaky tricks of the trade.

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