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Reel Rock Film Tour Info and Trailer

August 24, 2009

In just a couple weeks, the 2009 Reel Rock Film Tour will kick off in Boulder on September 10. There are two main attractions for this fourth installment of the tour. Big UP will present Progression featuring Chris Sharma, Kevin Jorgeson, and Tommy Caldwell. Sender Films and Nat Geo Adventure Channel will preview First Ascent: [...]

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Climbing Video: Alex Honnold Solos Half Dome

August 24, 2009

Alex Honnold free solos the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12a) in Yosemite. Alex Honnold free solos Half Dome from Hennie vJ on Vimeo. (via Rock and Ice, ClimbingNarc)

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Silent Feet, How to Have Better Climbing Footwork

August 18, 2009

Silent feet was one the best exercises I learned for better technique when I started climbing. This Tech Tip from Climbing goes into details on how to have better footwork while climbing. As your main points of weighted contact, your feet matter. Placing them silently forces you to be deliberate and aware with your choice, [...]

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Review: Tuolumne Bouldering by SuperTopo

August 17, 2009

Back in 2002, I had a business trip to Silicon Valley and took a long weekend to head to Yosemite for some bouldering. There was only a smallish guidebook to the Valley bouldering at the time, but it was enough to get around and for me to sample the bouldering. Since it was the middle [...]

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Dead Point Magazine Now Offers PDF Download, Kinda

August 17, 2009

ClimbingNarc reports that Dead Point Magazine now allows you to save the online magazine as a PDF for offline reading. I’ve been complaining about this for a while, but unfortunately they’re not quite there yet. You can’t just click on a link for the PDF download. Instead, you have to load up the entire online [...]

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Climbing Video: Matt Wilder on The Path (5.14a/b R)

August 14, 2009

Matt Wilder making the third ascent of The Path (5.14a/b R) at Lake Louise in Alberta, Canada. via Matt Wilder and @jmccartie

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Bouldering Crash Pad Questions from Tourists

August 14, 2009

It still surprises me how frequently I get questions and comments about my crash pad from “tourists” while bouldering. Jon McCartie has a great essay discussing these often humorous exchanges. Son: “Look dad! Look at the rock climbers!” Dad: “Yeah, son — they’re practicing their rock climbing.” (No, sir! This is rock climbing… my goal [...]

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What it Takes to Climb 5.12

August 12, 2009

Gregory Thaczuk writes about what it takes to climb 5.12. Sure I went climbing regularly but I wasn’t really trying. I took the easy way out. I toproped whenever someone else was willing to lead. I climbed the same routes regularly. If I was leading and my knees where at a bolt I would take [...]

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John Bachar and Free Soloing

August 12, 2009

The Wall Street Journal has an article on John Bachar and free soloing. He was one of the first climbers to train for the sport like he was an Olympic athlete. Bachar was renowned not only for his physical prowess but even more for his mental mastery, his ability to put fear at bay and [...]

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Craig Luebben Dies Climbing in the Cascades

August 10, 2009

In what’s proving to be a sad year of climbing-related deaths, the well-respected climbing author Craig Luebben died yesterday in Washington’s Cascade Range by falling ice. I’ve always enjoyed his writing and this is sad loss for the climbing community. My condolences go out to the family. Peter Beal also points us to an excellent [...]

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Squamish Climbing Magazine Released

August 3, 2009

The first edition of the all digital Squamish Climbing Magazine is out. You can download it from their web site as a PDF. I’m really impressed with this first issue. It’s interesting, very professional, and has a few articles that aren’t regional and will appeal to all climbers. This is how Dead Point Magazine should [...]

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Climbing Video: Sonnie Trotter on Master Blaster in Zion National Park

July 31, 2009

Sonnie Trotter getting the third ascent of Master Blaster (5.13c/d) in Zion National Park. From Trotter: The climb was first freed by Seattle bad ass Ben Gilkinson, and Lauren Lee and I made the Second and Third ascents, back to back. It was a great experience because the exposure was stunning, but the cracks size, [...]

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