Pre-Equalized Anchors and the American Death Triangle

The American Alpine Institute points out a series of videos by Canadian climbing guide Mike Barter on the pre-equalization on anchors: There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully […]

January 2, 2009

Never Trust a Single Anchor, an Analysis of a Rock Climbing Accident

Stewart Green writes up an excellent and detailed analysis of a climbing accident at the Garden of the Gods, Colorado. Apparently there were two sets of anchors at the top of The Practice Slab, an 80-foot sandstone slab route on South Gateway Rock, but the climber used the older set. This climber, however, disregarded the […]