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Reports from Hounds Ears – Five Ten blog, Rock & Ice, Climbing Narc UKClimbing has an extensive overview of Yosemite climbing. Dead Point Magazine interviews Big Up Productions. Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins win the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas.
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Justin Edl established Home on the Range (5.14-) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming , likely one of the hardest cracks in the US. More info on Mountain Project. Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15) Steve McClure repeats Hubble 13 year old summits Carstensz Pyramid Italian Climber Riccardo Cassin Dies at Age 100 Rock & Ice [...]
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The Access Fund signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Park Service (NPS) outlining a relationship between climbers and the NPS. Nalle Hukkataival is in Colorado sending Jade (V15) and establishing a new V13 called Sunseeker. Adam Ondra repeats Alex Huber’s Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. Om sat unrepeated for 17 years after Huber’s [...]
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Search for missing climber Micah Dash is called off due to bad weather. Collection of video tributes to Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and the link to donate to the search fund. The Spot Gym is holding a fundraiser for the The Search Fund on Tuesday, June 16th in Boulder. More details on [...]
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Climbing Magazine reports that Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that he’s graded mid-5.15. Ueli Steck comes close to an El Cap onsight with Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches). ClimbingNarc interviews Shawn Diamond and pimpin and crimpin interviews Phil Schaal. The CragBaby provides a trip [...]
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A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo) From the article: At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now [...]
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photo credit: Susanica Nalle Hukkataival has been sending many hard Hueco boulder problems including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s Full Monty (V12). ClimbingNarc has a good summary of the sends this season at Hueco. There appears to be access issues at the sport climbing hotbed of Margalef, Spain. The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) [...]
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More wrap-ups of the ABS Nationals from ClimbingNarc, Paul Robinson, Sean McColl, Jon Glassberg, Pimpin and Crimpin, Momentum Video, Dead Point Magazine, and Climbing Magazine. Peter Beal made the FA of There Will Be Blood SDS (V12) at Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado. Ethan Pringle re-injures his shoulder during the ABS Nationals comp. Markus Bock sent 24 [...]
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Czech climber Adam Ondra redpointed WoGu (5.14) in Switzerland Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls re-opens to climbers Peregrine closures lifted for all USFS and non-FS climbing areas in North Carolina Dave Macleod frees Echo Wall, Scotland China closes Mt. Everest for spring cleanup in 2009 Nicolas Favresse makes second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14)
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Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set new speed record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite Results of the lead-climbing competition in China Yosemite Museum at Yosemite National Park is featuring new exhibit dedicated to rock climbing Bill to ban bisphenol-A (BPA) was introduced to Congress Nau purchased and re-opend by Horny Toad
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Sonnie Trotter repeats Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (E11/5.14c R) in Great Britain Hot Aches Productions writes about filming Rhapsody Tommy Caldwell frees Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) on El Cap in 20 hours and 2 minutes Results from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado Dosage Vol. 5 world premiere review
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One of my favorite new climbing bloggers, RockClimberGirl, is featured in an interview on FrontRangeBouldering.com. Chris Sharma climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Spain Recap of the Telluride Mountainfilm Festival Steve McClure climbs new 9a+/5.15a in Yorkshire, U.K. Ueli Steck wins 2008 Eiger Award The Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant applications are due June 15th Results of [...]
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