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Posts tagged as:

testing

Black Diamond on Autoblock Misuse

by Tom Markiewicz on July 16, 2009

Black Diamond’s quality control lab tested autoblock belay device common misuses and provided extensive details. Specifically they looked at: – incorrectly using a standard belay device as an autoblock device – using multiple biners as the “brake bar” in order to make taking in rope easier Regarding the multiple carabiner test, they found that using [...]

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Belay Device Friction Test

by Tom Markiewicz on January 13, 2009

Following up on their climbing shoe rubber friction test, Spadout has recently released a belay device friction test. While highly unscientific not rigorous, this is at least a nice starting point for an objective debate over which tube-style belay device is best (they did not test auto-blocking devices). Their overriding view on the tests were: [...]

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